Sunday, September 9, 2007

please to the table!

Hungry for pierogies and sauerkraut, we headed over to the Ukrainian Festival in Patterson Park on Saturday. Whenever any food is served at an outdoor festival, it instantly becomes street food, making it taste all that much better. Aside from baseball and football games, this is the only other place we'd pay an arm and a leg for some beer and a plate of mediocre eats. Everything here though, was homemade and very reasonably priced. So we ate. And kept on eating.

We started with a tray of pierogies with potato and cheese, and some stuffed with sauerkraut.


Still hungry, we shared another plate of pierogies and holupki- cabbage rolls, stuffed with ground meat and rice.


Having grown tired of eating all white food, I was on the hunt for some color.

A delicious beet salad, with potato, pickles, onion, and dill.

Some pretty eggs, but not of the edible variety.


We ended the afternoon with a go on the swings.

Friday, September 7, 2007

how to: paneer


Most Americans have tasted this Indian staple cheese due to its prevalence now in Indian restaurants, commonly appearing in familiar dishes like palak paneer (spinach with paneer) and matar paneer (peas with cheese). Chewy and incredibly mild, it easily takes on the flavors of the surrounding spices in which it stews. Since much of the population of India are vegetarian, paneer has become a great source of protein because it's not made using rennet, an animal enzyme used to make most cheeses of the world. Paneer, instead, is acid-coagulated using lemon or lime juice, or vinegar. The curds are pressed to release any moisture and cut for immediate use in cooking.

It's believed that paneer was originally introduced to India by invaders from the west, Persia and Afghanistan. Paneer means cheese in Persian. To this day, paneer production is most common in the northwest outlying regions of India. It wasn't until about 40 years ago that paneer started to spread and gain popularity throughout the rest of the country.

You can find paneer sold in blocks at Indian and international markets. I've also seen it at Whole Foods ($6-$7). In Baltimore specifically, it's available at several Halal markets in the city and in Catonsville. But then again, you can simply make your own at home...

Paneer
yields 10-12 ounces

1 quart whole milk
juice of 2 lemons or limes

1. In a large stockpot, heat the milk to a boil, reduce heat to medium low, and simmer for 10 minutes, constantly stirring.

2. With heat on low, stir in the lemon juice. Keep stirring for 30 seconds. The curds will seperate from the whey.

3. Line a colander with 2 layers of cheesecloth. Pour the curds and whey into the colander. Rinse the curds with cold water to wash off excess lemon juice and foam.



4. Gather the edges of cloth and wring out any liquid from the cheese. Tie a knot to secure the cheese in a tight ball. Slip a chopstick through the knot and balance in a deep bowl to facilitate draining. Let hang for 1 1/2 hours.


5. Untie knot and squeeze out any more liquid. Twist the cloth again to reform a tight ball. Set on a plate and weigh down the cheese with anything heavy (casserole dish, bricks, etc) for 2 hours.

6. Remove weights and place pressed cheese in refrigerator for about 1/2 hour to firm up. Cut the cheese into strips, then cubes.



7. Fry on all sides in a pan with butter, ghee (clarified butter), or vegetable oil.

free-form fig galette

You know those distinct moments when you tasted a certain food for the first time, and it was a revelation for your tastebuds, not only in terms of flavor, but texture and the feelings it conjured? It was like... crack. For me, figs fall into that group, along with avocado, butternut squash, black truffle, lardons, toro, browned butter,etc etc....

Soft, sweet and complex. The black mission variety were on sale (!) at Whole Foods last week, 3 pints for $5. Half of it I ate, fresh and raw, standing barefoot in my kitchen. The other half I decided to roast, in a dessert dish, with leftover pate sucree pastry dough from my freezer. Of course, you can use any type of pastry dough you like, or even puff pastry and phillo.
Caramelized fig, on its journey to my mouth

Fig Galette

pastry dough of your choice, rolled into a disc, 8-9" diameter, 1/16" thick

1/2 pint figs, stemmed and halved
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp lemon juice
1 tsp vanilla extract

Gently use your fingers to toss the figs with sugar, lemon juice, and vanilla. Arrange in the center of the dough, in concentric circles. Fold the edges of the dough in, slightly covering the outermost layer of figs. Bake at 375F for ~25 min, or until golden.

Cool on a wire rack. Dust with powdered sugar and serve.

matthew's pizza


Sometimes, a girl's just gotta have her carbs- preferably in the form of thick, buttery, doughy pizza crust. It reminded me of Pizza Hut's pan pizza, but with more bite, and a sweeter, yeastier flavor. What, you ask, could I be rambling about? Matthew's Pizza, of course! The list of accolades and rave reviews goes on and on... but completely well-deserved.

When you first walk in, you're struck by the small town pizzeria ambiance of the place, something that we've lost when we commonly nowadays pick up the phone to order pizzas from a chain. We had placed an order for carryout- a large pizza, half pepperoni, half mushroom and onion. It came sandwiched between two paper plates, then wrapped in white butcher paper. I was surprised by how light it felt in my hands. For a "large" pizza (at $10.71), it was quite small in diameter- about 10". But... didn't your mama ever tell you that size don't matter?? What it lacked in size, it made up for in texture and flavor. The crust, oh! the crust, and the homemade sauce and crispy cheese... My only peeve was that the mushrooms were canned. GASP! The rubberiness and slight taste of brine became a bit of a hinderance as I tore into my piece. For fellow fungi purists, I would not recommend adding this as a topping. All in all, the crust sealed the deal for me- it has wiped my memory clean of all pizzas that came before.

The heavenly result of the perfect dough, baked in a well-seasoned, deep dish pizza pan.


Matthew's Pizza in Baltimore

Matthew's Pizza

3131 Eastern Avenue
Baltimore, MD 21224

Wednesday, September 5, 2007

thai tomato bisque

There's only two weeks of summer left! Hurry and make the most of the season's tomatoes, zucchini, and berries. I used a medley of tomatoes from my parent's garden to make this bisque, but of course canned tomatoes are just as good. When using fresh, make sure to peel and deseed them for a smoother texture soup. This is a good transitional dish between seasons- light enough for summer, and still hearty enough for the fall.

Oh and on a side note, my orchid plant has been flourishing like its on steroids! I think I've found the secret...plenty of sun, and a warm environment. Try to keep it in doors, as far away from air conditioning as possible.



Thai Tomato Bisque with Basil Oil Crouton
serves 3-4

1 28-oz. can fire-roasted diced tomato
1/4 cup diced onion
1/4 cup diced carrot
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tsp ginger root, minced
5-6 kaffir lime leaves
3 Tbsp fish sauce
1 Tbsp palm sugar (or regular sugar)
1/3 cup half & half, whole milk, or skim milk

1. In a soup pot, sautee onion and carrot in 1 Tbsp of oil over medium heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger; keep stirring for a few more minutes.

2. Add the tomato, kaffir lime, fish sauce and palm sugar. Water can be added if the soup looks too chunky. Let come to a boil. Simmer over low heat, covered, for 1-2 hours.

3. Pick out the kaffir lime leaves. With an immersion blender, puree the soup. Add the half & half or milk, and simmer for 5-10 more minutes.

4. Serve with a piece of toasted baguette drizzle with basil oil.


Basil Oil
makes 2 cups

1 cup packed basil leaves, chopped
2 cups extra virgin olive oil, chilled
1 tsp salt

In a food processor or blender, puree all ingredients until smooth and well blended. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Store in a squeeze bottle in the refrigerator for up to one 1-2 months.

we came together

Mehndi on the bride's hands

What does it mean to open ourselves up to someone else, someone who is different from us? Perhaps it's understanding and accepting a new culture, a new lifestyle, a different set of habits. Perhaps it's seeing every which way we're the same, and yet appreciating all the ways in which we are different. A culture clash can be a wonderful thing.

Eating the food from a different culture is to begin to truly understand the heart and soul of that people, their history and lives. If you think about it, cooking is one of the purest and most genuine ways in which someone can express themselves and to translate the intimacies of their culture and traditions. When we pick up a pair of chopsticks, reach across the table for a piece of sushi, we're breaking a culture barrier. For me, this isn't enough. I enjoy recreating these dishes in my own kitchen, and really going through the same processes and techniques that a Japanese granny or an Indian auntie would in theirs. It shows that we're capable of crossing boundaries, be it racial, ethnic, or even social and economic. Food transcends borders and class; it brings people together- to the table, to the middle, to the other side.

This past weekend, my best friends and I reunited for our friends' engagement party- a three day long celebration with family, friends and out of this world Indian food! Up until this weekend, I didn't realize just how little I knew about Indian food culture, the regions and the ingredients. Beyond curries, cumin, turmeric powder, garam masala, biryanis....there is a whole world of fresh and intense flavors that tease the palate. Much of the food was prepared by the family. They urged us to try everything and explained what each dish was, all the while with pride and love in their eyes as they introduced a piece of their world to us. Food was the medium by which they welcomed us into their homes. It also gave us a glimpse of the intensely warm energy of this family, their relationships with each other, and the unspeakable pride and joy that brought us all together to honor the young couple.

These are just a few of the dishes we gorged on...

Fritters stuffed with potato, chickpeas, green chutney, raita, and sev (a fried snack that looks like vermicelli)

oh hell yea! Samosas!

Tandoori chicken with coriander chutney

I think this is called bhel puri- a snack of fried pastry, boiled potato, chickpeas, chutneys, raw diced onion, and sev

Idli- a steamed rice cake made of rice and lentil flours

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

golden kiwi and strawberry tarte


Somehow when fresh fruit is added to a dessert, it helps to negate a portion of the calories...it just doesn't seem as bad for you anymore, does it? That's exactly how I feel of fruit tartes. The eggy custard of the creme patissiere and the rich buttery crust can't possibly be that fattening since the layer of fruit on top is sure to clean out your arteries!

I made this favorite dessert of my mom's for her recent birthday dinner. I forgot how nice it is to work in a big spacious kitchen, especially when doing pastry work. My parents have 2 kitchens, one for Chinese heavy-duty stir-frying where the exhaust hood can literally suck the shirt off your back, and one for light cooking and entertaining. Even then, it still boas
ts a 5-burner range top, 2 ovens, and ample marble countertops. And they hardly use all this! Nevertheless, I took full advantage and got down and dirty with my dough.

Pastry work is extremely soothing for me. It's methodical- certain steps must be followed and each step involves using your hands, either gently or with force, but always with some degree of precision. The crust in this recipe is the most time consuming, but if you are up for the challenge, you will be well rewarded with a delicious crumbly piece of delightfulness.



Fresh Fruit Tarte- Golden Kiwi, Strawberry, Creme Patissiere

adapted from Baking Illustrated

Equipment
oblong fluted tart pan, with removable bottom
pastry board
rolling pin
fine mesh sieve
pastry brush

Tarte Pastry
1 egg yolk
1-2 tbsp heavy cream
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups all purpose flour
2/3 cup confectioner's sugar
pinch salt
8 tbsp (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Pastry Cream
2 cups half and half
1/2 cup sugar

pinch salt
5 egg yolks
3 tbsp cornstarch
4 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 tsp vanilla extract

Fruit Topping
strawberries, hulled and sliced
golden kiwi**, peeled and sliced
2 tbsp apricot jelly
1 tbsp brandy

1. For the Tart Pastry: Whisk together yolk, cream, and vanilla in small bowl; set aside. Pulse to combine flour, sugar, and salt in bowl of food processor. Scatter butter pieces over flour mixture; pulse to cut butter into flour until mixture resembles coarse meal. With machine running, add egg mixture and process until dough just comes together, about 25 seconds. Turn dough onto sheet of plastic wrap and press into a small brick. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate at about 1 hour.

2. Remove dough from refrigerator. Unwrap and roll out between lightly floured large sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap to 6x18 inch rectangle. Transfer dough to tart pan by rolling dough loosely around rolling pin and unrolling over tart pan. Working around the edge of the pan, press dough into fluted sides of pan. (If some edges are too thin, reinforce sides by folding excess dough back on itself.) Run rolling pin over top of tart pan to remove excess dough. Freeze for 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375F. Set dough-lined tart pan on baking sheet, press foil inside frozen tart shell and over edges and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes, rotating halfway through baking time. Remove from oven and carefully r
emove foil and weights by gathering edges of foil and pulling up and out. Continue to bake until deep golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes longer. Set baking sheet with tart shell on wire rack to cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

4. For the Pastry Cream: Heat half-and-half, 6 tablespoons sugar, and salt in medium saucepan over medium heat until simmering, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar.

5. Meanwhile, whisk egg yolks in medium bowl until thoroughly combined. Whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and whisk until sugar has begun to dissolve and mixture is creamy, about 15 seconds. Whisk in cornstarch until combined and mixture is pale yellow and thick, about 30 seconds.

6. When half-and-half mixture reaches full simmer, gradually whisk simmering half-and-half into yolk mixture to temper. Return mixture to saucepan, and simmer over medium heat, whisking constantly, until 3 or 4 bubbles burst on surface and mixture is thickened and glossy, about 30 seconds. Off heat, whisk in butter and vanilla. Press the custard through a fine mesh sieve to remove any lumps. Transfer mixture to medium bowl, press plastic wrap directly on surface, and refrigerate until cold and set, at leas
t 3 hours or up to 48 hours.

7. Assembly: When tart shell is completely cool, spread cold pastry cream over bottom, using offset spatula or large spoon. Arrange fruit on top of pastry cream, following a design of your choice.

8. Microwave jelly for ~20 seconds. Stir in the brandy. With a pastry brush, gently dab and brush on fruit to glaze. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes to let set up. Remove outer metal of tart pan, slide thin metal spatula between bottom of crust and tart pan bottom to release, then slip tart onto erving platter; serve.


**The kiwi originates from Southern China. Seeds of the fruit were first introduced to New Zealand circa 1908, where it later flourished. The golden kiwi variety is man cultivated. The taste is sweeter and far less tart than its green brethren. You can find them here in the U.S. during the summer months. They are lighter brown in color, with appreciably less fuzz, and have a characteristic funny little nub at one end.

mom's birthday dinner

We celebrated my mom's birthday over the weekend. She asked for a nice dinner at home, no muss and fuss of dining out. That's fine by me, since my dad's home cooking is what I consider my ultimate comfort food. Many of his dishes are passed down from his father, my grandpa, a real chef and legend in our hometown in northeast China. Many of the ingredients my dad used were fresh from his garden- peppers, japanese eggplant, scallions, cucumbers and tomatoes. I let him take care of the main courses while I prepared a fresh fruit tarte for dessert. We dined, wined, and celebrated my mom's birthday, her youth and vitality, in the comfort of our kitchen.

Kao Da Xia - Wok Fired Jumbo Shrimp

Jiao Xhi Yu - Sweet and Tangy Crispy Whole Fish

You Chao Qiezi La Jiao - Spicy Eggplant and Pepper Stir Fry

Garlic Stir-fried Broccoli and Snow Peas

Fresh Fruit Tarte - Strawberries, Golden Kiwi, Creme Patissiere

Also on the menu, but not pictured-
Butter lettuce salad with avocado, cucumbers, and dates
Red bean (Adzuki) congee

umeshu


S-A-T-U-R-D-A-Y-night! Mr.S and I spent Saturday evening at a Baltimore foodie party, hosted by fellow blogger, Rachel. Everyone brought interesting liquors and beverages... limoncello, Pimms, Sangrita, Unicum... We brought this bottle of Japanese plum wine and sweet wasabi pickles to complement (see previous post). Called umeshu, this wine is made by soaking green plums, ume, in clear distilled liquor, shochu, for up to 12 years. It is sweet and warm-tasting, and reminded me of ice wine.

One of the most popular brands is called Choya. The website gives recipes for using umeshu in seasonal drinks, my favorite being the Choya Royal, a mixture of umeshu and dry champagne. Another interesting one is mixing 2 parts umeshu with 3 parts beer. Mmmmm.... I'm fairly convinced that the design of the bottle is what adds to the appeal of this wine- it reminded me of a sports water bottle or a Voss bottle with its straight shape and big cap lid. Hours of fun!