Showing posts with label cookbooks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cookbooks. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

the silver palate molasses cookies


Molasses cookies, why so glum? Too often, they are dismayed at having to share the same display case or cookie box with their more conspicuous and highly-celebrated counterparts. Enter the usual suspects- the chocolate chip, oatmeal raisin, snickerdoodle, white chip macadamia, peanut butter, even that short-lived seasonal cookie; the molasses lives in the shadows of such touted favorites. Perhaps the heady, bold flavors and spice of the molasses are a bit overwhelming for some. Or maybe what ruined it was there was just one too many commercial "ginger molasses crisps" out there that tasted and looked more like hardtack than a cookie. I was guilty of such intimidations; as a child, faced with the decision between a buttery shortbread cookie and a dark, lackluster molasses, the choice was obvious.

My first eye-opening experience, or rather, tastebud-opening, with the molasses cookie actually involved a Starbuck's. After ordering a PB cookie, I was mistakenly given the molasses, and reluctantly I nibbled. I remember the immediate sweetness, not cloying, but deep and rich, like a good caramel. The cloves and cinnamon hit my palate next, spicy, but balanced out by the tons of butter that'd probably been used for the dough. This entire time, I had been missing out. Perhaps it was a sign that I was entering adult cookie-dom, no more frosted sugar cookies or animal crackers (but don't count on it).

Since then, I've always enjoyed making different versions of the molasses cookie- some recipes use ginger, others less but with more cinnamon and allspice; playing with the dough to get the right texture also took a few trials to get right. I've eaten my way through thin and crispy, soft and chewy, soft and cakelike, and stick-to-your-teeth chewy. One of my favorite versions, that produces consistent results time and again, is a recipe from The Silver Palate Cookbook. According to the book, these cookies are one of their most popular treats. I strongly concur, as everytime I've made these large, saucer-like cookies, they turn out deliciously rich, spicy, and nuanced with flavor. Crispy around the edges, with a chewy center, just the way I like.

Nowadays, more often than not, I'll choose the molasses over any old chocolate chip, and especially if they're homemade. What it lacks in flamboyance, it makes up for with personality. That alone, should sell itself.

Molasses Cookies
from The Silver Palate Cookbook

12 Tbsp unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
1/4 molasses
1 egg

1 3/4 cups flour
1/2 tsp ground cloves
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp baking soda

1. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.
2. Melt the butter, and add in sugar and molasses.
3. Lightly beat the egg and add to the butter mixture, blending well.
4. Sift the dry ingredients together, and add to the butter mixture. (It will look wet.)
5. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.
6. Drop the batter by heaping tablespoons onto the cookie sheet, 3 inches apart (they will spread out).
7. Bake 8-10 minutes, until the cookies darken.
8. Remove parchment from cookie sheet, and let the cookies cool on the paper, or a rack.

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

wokked pods


Warning: These wokked little pods are highly addictive.


During a recent chat about fun eateries (what else?) with a London-er, I was informed about a fast-food type eatery serving up delicious Japanese homestyle dishes called Wagamama. Its menu is based around speedy noodle and rice offerings, and uses fresh ingredients like shrimp, cod, and tofu. Since the first few branches opened in London, a slew of outposts have sprang up all over the world, from Sydney to Amsterdam. There are even two in Boston.

This prompted me to buy the Wagamama cookbook, with a says-it-all front cover photo of a hungry diner with his head buried in a giant bowl of soup noodles. The recipes are easy for the home cook, very straightforward with common ingredients that can be found in any supermarket. A wok is required, as is high heat, but not a lot of time, since Wagamama food is based on efficiency with a whole lot of flavor.

My wok got some hot, spicy action tonight for dinner, as did my mouth. I've never had flavored edamame before, and from now on, I don't think I'll have it any other way! My twist on the dish is the addition of a dash of Chinese five spice powder for an extra bit of flavor. Enjoy, you'll never look at the edamame the same way again.


Edamame with Chile

adapted from The Wagamama Cookbook

8 oz edamame in their pods
1 red chile, trimmed, seeded and finely chopped
1 Tbsp vegetable oil
1 tsp sea salt
1/2 tsp Chinese five spice powder
1 tsp sesame oil

1. If using frozen edamame, defrost, and steam the pods either in a steamer or in the microwave for about 1 minute, until firm but still with a bite. Drain thoroughly.

2. Heat up the vegetable oil in a wok over high. Add the edamame, chile and salt, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Stir in the five spice powder and sesame oil. Turn the heat off, and serve warm. Sprinkle with additional salt, if needed.

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

quick cream dressing


I've had my eye on a certain cookbook for a long time now, and finally am able to call it my own. So I have to say that I am a huge nerd, and that's ok with me. On Saturday afternoons, nothing makes me happier than watching a bit of Maryland public television, and visiting my good friend Jacques Pépin. Fast Food My Way is a compilation of his recipes from this show, wonderfully simple French dishes, all quick enough to put together for a weeknight dinner, without sacrificing his usual elegance or flavor. What's particularly appealing is his incorporation of his childhood favorites from his mother's kitchen, one of which stood out to me for its simplicity. Pépin remembers his maman's salad that she would frequently serve the kids, a simple salad of bibb lettuce tossed with a cream dressing.

For this dish, use a high quality heavy cream, preferably not ultra-pasteurized, or else it will have difficulty thickening up. (I use cream from Trickling Springs Dairy; expensive yes, but you won't be sorry.) The sweet cream really shines through, light and velvety on the tongue. Fresh spring vegetables are recommended, all lush and verdant. I had some nice thick asparagus and fresh peas on hand. Blanched brussels sprouts would be especially tasty too.


Quick Cream Dressing
from Fast Food My Way
yields 4 servings

Be careful not to overwhip the cream. If overwhipped, the dressing will thicken quickly after the vinegar addition. It it thickens too much, dilute it with 1 tbsp water before tossing it with the vegetables.


1/4 cup good quality heavy cream
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp ground black pepper
1 1/2 tsp red wine vinegar

1. Just before serving, put the cream, salt, and pepper in a salad bowl and whip with a whisk for about 15 seconds, or just until frothy. Stir in the vinegar.

2. Add the vegetables or greens, and lightly toss in the dressing. Serve immediately.

Sunday, October 14, 2007

sweet pea pudding


For a while there, I was utterly obsessed with Mario Batali's Babbo cookbook. It still remains one of my favorites to peruse when I need a jolt of inspiration. The composition and coloring of the photographs, along with the simplicity and authenticity of the recipes, truly makes this a prized cookbook in my collection. The following recipe is inspired by Batali's Sweet Pea Flan.

So I know this is like the complete antithesis of a fall dish. But sometimes you got to just say "to hell with seasonal!" and simply cook with the ingredients that you want. Alice Waters would probably be plotting my death if she ever heard that, but whatever, I cook with what inspires me, be it seasonal or not. Plus, this dish is just so pretty, and really honest-to-God mouth watering.

The pea shoots were a little gift from my father, who picked them up for me at the asian market. A little tip for picking out fresh pea shoots: look for crisp, green, and tender ones. The smaller the better, and pay attention to the tendrils- look for a clean, delicate curl. This recipe calls for carrot juice. I juice my own carrots, which I highly recommend, but if you don't have a juicer, get a bottle of Fresh Samantha's or Odwalla from the store. Lastly, I use a steamer to make the puddings, but a bain-marie (a water bath in the oven) would equally work.

Yes, fall flavors rock, but a little "spring break" can put a huge grin on my face too.


Sweet Pea Pudding with Pea Shoot Salad
serves 6

3/4 lb. frozen or fresh sweet peas
3 eggs
3/4 cup heavy cream
1 tsp lemon juice
1/2 tsp salt
fresh ground pepper

2 cups packed fresh pea shoots
1/4 cup sweet peas

3/4 cup carrot juice
1 Tbsp honey
1/4 cup champagne vinegar
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

1. For the puddings: In a food processor, blend together the peas and eggs until smooth. Spoon into a mixing bowl, and whisk in heavy cream, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

2. Grease the bottom and sides of 6 ramekins. Pour equal amounts of pea mixture into each and steam in a large steamer, on medium-high heat, for 20 minutes. Remove and let cool to room temperature.

3. For salad: Rinse and dry the pea shoots, and set aside with the 1/4 cup of peas. Whisk together carrot juice, honey, vinegar, and olive oil. Pour over the shoots and lightly toss.

4. To serve: Run a knife around the inside edge of the ramekins. Invert onto a serving plate. Add a mound of salad on top of each pudding. Drizzle with any remaining reserved dressing and olive oil around the plate.

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

roasted butternut squash in nib vinaigrette

Coarsely chopped cacao nibs

My favorite chocolate bar is the Nibby bar from Scharffen Berger. If I could melt it down and pump it directly into my veins, well, I would. It's a 62% semisweet chocolate embedded with crunchy bits of roasted cacao bean (nibs). The nibs are essentially what chocolate is made of. They have a rich intense chocolate taste, without any of the sweetness. Really smoky and complex, somewhat like a roasted coffee bean. At one point, Nibby bars were so popular that they were virtually sold out no sooner than they were put up on shelves. So... I went a little crazy when I visited the Scharffen Berger store at the Ferry Building in San Francisco earlier this year. (The elusive 3-oz. bar was all mine!)

The following recipe is adapted from The Essence of Chocolate, a beautifully written cookbook by John Scharffenberger and Robert Steinberg (the founders of the company) that honors the cacao bean. What sets this book apart from all other chocolate recipe books is that it truly optimizes all the flavors of chocolate, even the subtle notes. Many of the savory recipes were such eye-openers for me in that I never realized how well cacao could bring out the flavors of foods such as goat cheese, beans, and in this case, butternut squash.


The recipe calls for pancetta but I instead used bacon for a bit of extra smokiness. The cacao nibs intensified the subtle sweetness of the squash, which complemented the saltiness of the bacon. If texture excites you, then you must try this dish. Silky smooth squash with crispy bits of bacon and grittiness of the nibs. Trust me, it works.

Roasted Butternut Squash with Nib Vinaigrette
adapted from The Essence of Chocolate

1 4-lb. butternut squash, peeled, cut in half lengthwise, seeded
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground pepper
1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 1/2 tsp cacao nibs, coarely chopped
1 shallot, minced
3 oz. pancetta, or bacon

1. Cut the squash into 1/4" slices. Toss with 2 Tbsp olive oil and lay out onto a baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

2. In a 450F oven, roast for 20 min, until golden and soft.

3. Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette. In a skillet, cook the pancetta or bacon until crisp. Drain on paper towels. When cool, crumble into small pieces.

4. Combine the remaining olive oil, vinegar, nibs and shallot in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Gently whisk.

Before the emulsion

5. Place the squash in a large bowl. Add half the vinaigrette and half the pancetta, gently toss to coat. Arrange the squash on a large platter, and drizzle with remaining vinaigrette and top with the pancetta.

Monday, July 2, 2007

my prize!

My recipe, Coconut Beignets with Lime Sugar, won fellow Baltimore food blogger Coconut and Lime's original recipe contest! I met up with Rachel over the weekend to pick up my prize.

My treasures include a lovely dish towel with a soda bread recipe, Haribo fizzy cola gummies, and best yet, a beautiful cookbook, Italian Two Easy: London River Cafe. The recipes are simple and straightforward, and uses wonderfully fresh and seasonal ingredients. I already have my eye on a few recipes! Dilatoni pasta with mussels and white wine... savoy cabbage soup with ricotta crostini... zucchini scapece (like zucchini fries)... poached black fig with almonds... and lemon ricotta pinenut cake. It's the perfect selection of dishes for the summer, with whole chapters dedicated to lemon desserts, grilled fish, and fresh mozzarella salads. Very inspiring, and really brings you back to the foundation of great food: fresh simple ingredients.

Wednesday, April 11, 2007

butternut squash lune

My golden boy of the moment is the quirky and flamboyant Mario Batali. That's right Tony (Bourdain), move your skinny butt and your reduced sauces over. No, I take that back, there will always be a special place in my culinary heart for Tony. After all, his Les Halles cookbook did first introduce me to some of the best no nonsense Boeuf Bourguignon and French Onion Soup. I recently bought the Babbo cookbook from ebay and has since become my favorite book of recipes that I probably can't make bc I don't have access to all of those wonderful ingredients. You know what I'm talking about, luscious nuggets of earthy goodness ie black truffles, fresh squid ink, skate wings, sweetbreads, capon stock... More or less it has inspired me to cook like an Italian grandmother.


Butternut squash lune with hazelnut brown butter and mustard greens. This was inspired by Mario's Pumpkin lune with butter and sage. Lune (little moons) often have crushed amaretti cookies in the filling and that's what I used. I also used dumpling wrappers instead of fresh pasta dough... ok so I know that would deserve a slap on the face from a little old Italian lady, but hey, it works pretty well!

Butternut squash lune with hazelnut brown butter and mustard greens

Squash Lune:
1 butternut squash, small

2 T extra-virgin olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 large shallots, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 cup whole milk ricotta cheese
3 small amaretti cookies, crushed
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1 package dumpling wrappers

Brown Butter Sauce:
4 T butter
3 T chicken stock
1/4 cup toasted hazelnuts, chopped
3/4 cup mustard greens, rough chopped
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. On a foil-lined baking sheet toss together the butternut squash, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Bake in the oven until soft and golden, about 25 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Cook the shallots and garlic until lightly golden, about 3 minutes.

In a food processor, combine the butternut squash mixture, the shallot mixture, and the ricotta cheese and pulse a few times to blend. Add the crushed amaretti cookies, the nutmeg, and sprinkle with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Pulse until smooth.

Place 1 tablespoon of squash mixture in the middle of each skin. Dip a pastry brush in a little water and wet the edges of the skin. Gently fold the wrapper into a half-circle, making sure the edges are securely closed and there are no air pockets inside. Dampen the two bottom corners of the longest side of the triangle and gently bring them together, pressing lightly to secure. Place the formed tortellini on a baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and place the lune in the boiling water and gently stir. When they begin to float they are done, about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the nuts and let cook until the butter starts to brown, about 2 minutes. Add greens and stock and saute another 1 minute. Add half the Parmesan and season with salt and pepper.

Using a slotted spoon, gently spoon the lune into the brown butter and gently stir for 30 sec. Sprinkle with Parmesan and serve.


I also made a quick caprese salad for Mr. S and me.


Stay tuned for my unofficial Mario Batali fan website!
jk I have a life