pâté and salad

Dinner tonight was just right- a good balance of something heavy with a light, healthy salad. I brought home a small slab of pâté de campagne from work today, and assembled a quick and easy tartine (open-faced sandwich). A slice of toasted country white bread, then a smear of mayo and whole grain mustard, layered with slices of pâté and pickled pearl onions. All I needed was a glass of red wine, but sadly, my cabinets and wine rack are pretty bare bones at the moment since the moving began.

I like pork and pork products such as pâté, cured meats, scrapple, sausages... They certainly don't help me lower my borderline-high cholesterol, that's for sure. So in an effort to bring in some sort of vegetal component into my dinner, I threw together a quick salad of glazed carrots and wheatberries. Glazed with maple syrup and vanilla, the sweetness of the salad gave just the right balance to the acidity of the mustard and pickled onions. Wheatberries are not my favorite thing to eat, since they have a hard chewy texture that makes my jaw ache. But they are healthy, high in both protein and fiber. Be sure to cook them through thoroughly, and serve warm so that they still have some tenderness and bite to them.


Maple-Vanilla Glazed Carrot and Wheatberry Salad

2 medium carrots, peeled and julienned
3/4 cup - 1 cup cooked wheatberries
1/2 cup chicken broth, or water
seeds from 1/2 of a vanilla bean
2 Tbsp maple syrup
1 Tbsp unsalted butter
1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
salt and pepper to taste
parsley, for garnish

1. To a small saucepan, add carrots, broth or water, vanilla, maple syrup and butter. You may need more or less broth, depending on the amount of carrots and the size of your pan. Basically you want to cover the carrots with liquid, just barely. Bring to a boil, and turn down to a simmer. Cook for 6-8 minutes until carrots are tender.

2. Remove carrots with a slotted spoon and add to the cooked wheatberries in a bowl. Reduce the cooking liquid down further over low heat to thicken it up. When it's the desired consistency, pour over the carrots, along with the vinegar and parsley. Add salt and pepper to taste. Toss well and serve warm.

wokked pods

Warning: These wokked little pods are highly addictive.

During a recent chat about fun eateries (what else?) with a London-er, I was informed about a fast-food type eatery serving up delicious Japanese homestyle dishes called Wagamama. Its menu is based around speedy noodle and rice offerings, and uses fresh ingredients like shrimp, cod, and tofu. Since the first few branches opened in London, a slew of outposts have sprang up all over the world, from Sydney to Amsterdam. There are even two in Boston.

This prompted me to buy the Wagamama cookbook, with a says-it-all front cover photo of a hungry diner with his head buried in a giant bowl of soup noodles. The recipes are easy for the home cook, very straightforward with common ingredients that can be found in any supermarket. A wok is required, as is high heat, but not a lot of time, since Wagamama food is based on efficiency with a whole lot of flavor.

My wok got some hot, spicy action tonight for dinner, as did my mouth. I've never had flavored edamame before, and from now on, I don't think I'll have it any other way! My twist on the dish is the addition of a dash of Chinese five spice powder for an extra bit of flavor. Enjoy, you'll never look at the edamame the same way again.


Edamame with Chile
adapted from The Wagamama Cookbook

8 oz edamame in their pods
1 red chile, trimmed, seeded and finely chopped
1 Tbsp vegetable oil
1 tsp sea salt
1/2 tsp Chinese five spice powder
1 tsp sesame oil

1. If using frozen edamame, defrost, and steam the pods either in a steamer or in the microwave for about 1 minute, until firm but still with a bite. Drain thoroughly.

2. Heat up the vegetable oil in a wok over high. Add the edamame, chile and salt, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Stir in the five spice powder and sesame oil. Turn the heat off, and serve warm. Sprinkle with additional salt, if needed.

bento, minus the box

For dinner tonight, I assembled a bento box meal of shiozake (salted salmon), asparagus in dashi broth with egg, and steamed rice topped with furikake (rice seasoning). Of course it would have been more authentic if everything had been nicely compartmentalized within a cute bento box, but alas, none to be found in my kitchen amidst all the packing.

I salted the salmon yesterday, a fresh wild-caught piece from Whole Foods, with a generous rub of sea salt. I prefer it not overly salted, so instead of letting it sit any longer than 24 hours, I cooked it up tonight. The skin was delightfully crispy and the flesh was subtly salted and somewhat sweet. I rinsed off the rest of the pieces, patted them dry, and wrapped them in wax paper and a freezer bag to be frozen and eaten later on.


The asparagus is my take on a vegetarian donburi, steamed rice covered in a pork/rice/shrimp and simmered egg mixture. The ultimate comfort food. I flavored the broth with a mix of dashi, mirin, soy, sake and sugar. The combination of all these ingredients make a umami experience that's mind-blowing. Like a savory flavor explosion in your mouth. Good dish to down rice with.

The furikake, that I bought from the asian store. If you aren't familiar with this flavoring, it's a dry mix of seaweed, bonito flakes, sesame, soy and sugar. It adds another level to the taste and texture of just plain rice. Furikake comes in all sorts of fun flavors, like salmon, nori, wasabi, or nuts, and is sometimes even colored a pale pastel of green (wasabi) or pink (salmon).

It was really the perfect dinner for one. Just me tonight, as Mr.S is off far far away in new-job-training-land. So I kind of stunk up my small apartment with the smell of pan-fried fish, but it was worth it for a meal that really hit the spot, and was even well-balanced and quite healthy!


Asparagus-Don (Asparagus simmered in dashi with egg)
serves 2

1 small bunch asparagus, trimmed and cleaned
1 small onion, slivered
3 stalks scallion, chopped on the bias, green and white parts both
1 Tbsp slivered ginger
1/3 cup dashi broth
1 Tbsp soy sauce
1 Tbsp mirin
1 Tbsp sake
1 Tbsp sugar
1 egg, beaten

1. Heat 1 Tbsp of oil in a wok, and add scallion, ginger and onion. Cook for 1 minute, until fragrant. Add the asparagus, cooking for another 2 minutes or so until they become slightly tender and bright green.

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix together the dashi, soy, mirin, sake, and sugar. Add this mixture to the asparagus. Simmer over low heat for about 5 minutes to thicken the broth.

3. Stir in the beaten egg to incorporate into the broth. It will start to curdle, and look like egg drop soup. Cook for another minute, until the strings of egg have set up and somewhat solidified. Serve over steamed rice.

braised red cabbage

Count on Thomas Keller to fancify any rustic, traditionally peasant food. In this case, cabbage. Braised cabbage is incredibly comforting to eat, and a perfect accompaniment to sturdier cuts of meat like pork and lamb. What caught my eye about this recipe was its simplicity, its honest to goodness ingredients, and pared down preparation, which is surprisingly very un-Keller. At the French Laundry, he pairs this side dish with pan-fried skate and a creamy mustard sauce. Tonight, I served mine with grilled pork chops that I had brined for about two days, and slices of crusty sourdough bread.

The cabbage is slow cooked, which yields a fantastic creamy texture, not even in the slightest reminiscent of the tough, crunchy cabbage that you begin with. The flavors and seasonings are delicate, which really let the intrinsic cabbage flavor shine. No mustard, caraway, or vinegar are added. The only acid is a good red wine. Make sure to have a good part of your afternoon open to monitor its cooking. You'll be glad you did when your kitchen fills with the warmth of these aromas. Here's another shoutout to Mr. TK. You haven't disappointed me yet!



Braised Red Cabbage
from The French Laundry Cookbook

small head of red cabbage, about 1 1/2 lbs.
1 1/2 cup dry red wine
2 Tbsp duck fat, or unsalted butter
1 cup diced red onion (1/4")
1/2 cup finely grated apple (I used Gala)
1/2 cup veal, chicken, or vegetable stock
4 tsp honey, preferably wildflower honey
1 cup finely grated peeled russet potato
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Remove the thick ribs from the cabbage and cut the leaves into 1/4" strips. Place the cabbage and red wine in a large bowl, cover and refrigerate overnight.

2. The next day, preheat oven to 350F.

3. In a deep Dutch oven, warm the butter over medium-low heat. Add the red onion and cook until it begins to release its liquid, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cabbage, marinating liquid, apples and stock. Mix well, partially cover with the lid, and place in the oven. Bake for 2 hours, stirring, every 30 minutes or so.

4. Remove the pot from oven, and stir in the potato and honey to combine. If the mixture looks dry, stir in no more than 1/2 cup of water or stock. Recover loosely with the lid, return to oven, and bake for another 30-45 minutes. The cabbage will be very tender and noticeably creamy.

5. Season to taste with salt and pepper. The cabbage can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

korean potato salad

Why Yes! Asians eat mayonnaise too! Especially Japanese and Koreans, who are probably more familiar with the Hellman's brand than any middle class American family. Similarly, they use something called Kewpie mayonnaise, which is much akin to its western brethren, but contains a whole lot more sugar, stabilizers, and comes in a convenient squeeze bottle with a star-shaped tip. You know, for whenever you get the hankering to decorate some deli meat, or a hand roll. This ubiquitous condiment is used mainly as a binder for salads, with the most common being Korean or Japanese style potato salads. (There's also a popular Korean fruit salad dish that uses mayo as a dressing.)

Have you ever sat down at a Korean restaurant to be happily greeted with dozens of small plates of cold dishes and snacks, even before you've even ordered? These are called panchan, and are usually highly seasoned, spicy/sweet and sour, to stimulate the appetite. Some more popular ones are of course, kimchi, bean sprouts salad, wheat gluten, cold cucumber salad, fried soybeans, seaweed salad, and mashed potato salad. This last dish may seem oddly out of place with all of its creamy, fatty gloriousness, but is in fact, quite common in Korean households. In a culture where most of the ingredients are fresh, healthy and discernible, I suppose they can get away with splurging on one that's the complete opposite.


Korean Potato Salad

1 lb. potatoes
1/2 cucumber, sliced lengthwise
1/2 yellow or Spanish onion
1 carrot
1/2 cup mayonnaise or Kewpie
1 tsp sugar
salt and pepper, to taste

1. Peel the potatoes and roughly cut into 1" pieces. Put into a pot, cover with water and boil until fork-tender, about 10 minutes. Place the carrot, whole, into the pot as well.

2. Meanwhile, thinly slice the cucumber and set aside. Slice the onion into thin rings and soak in a bowl of cold water.

3. Drain and roughly mash the potatoes, leaving some large bite-size pieces. Let cool. Dice the carrot into 1/4" cubes. Drain and pat dry the onion slices.

4. Add the carrots, onion, cucumber, mayo, and sugar to the potatoes and mix well. Season with salt and pepper.

golden roasted brussels sprouts

Sundays are when my little kitchen gets the most action. There's just simply more time in the day to plan out meals and leisurely saunter around the kitchen. None of that 30 minute meals thing, and definitely no eating on the run. Big batch cooking is also a must, then portioned out to eat throughout the week. I had some beautiful brussels sprouts sitting around, which I had a craving to eat ever since last week. Roasting these little green heads is my favorite way to cook them- it gives them a crispy golden skin, caramelized in parts, leaving the insides tenderly steamed.

To add to the earthy flavors of the brussels sprouts, I threw into the pan an apple, and sweet onions. A final toss-in of toasted walnuts and dried cranberries finishes off this cozy fall dish. Curled up on my couch in my sweats, I finished off a big steaming bowl...yum.


Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Apples, Cranberries & Walnuts

1 lb. Brussels sprouts, cleaned
1 medium yellow onion, cut into slivers
2 small apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4" wedges
1/3 cup dried cranberries
1/4 cup toasted walnuts
3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper

1. Preheat oven to 375F. In a large roasting pan, toss together brussels sprouts, onion, and apples with the olive oil, and about 1 Tbsp salt.

2. Bake for 25-30 minutes, until the brussels sprouts start to brown, and are tender when pierced with a knife.

3. Remove and let cool. Toss together with cranberries, walnuts, and pepper to taste. Serve warm.


For dessert, I made a fun pumpkin trifle. For the pumpkin cream: just whip up some heavy whipping cream, sugar, cinnamon, and a few spoonfuls of pumpkin puree. And gasp! I used a store-bought pound cake for the cakey layers. Cut into 1/2" cubes and layer with the cream in stout little drinking glasses.

sautéed kabocha squash

My grandmother makes the most wonderful steamed buns and water dumplings, and an amazing wok-fried squash dish. She uses kabocha squash, a lovely japanese variety, with a vibrant golden flesh that in my opinion, is much sweeter and creamier than butternut, acorn, calabaza, or other varieties. Its texture is drier, much like a potato or sweet potato.

The beauty of this dish is the wonderful simplicity in its preparation. (The skin is left on to cook.) The integrity of the flavors of the kabocha are preserved and beautifully highlighted. My grams taught me step by step how to clean the kabocha and cook it. We had the sweet starchy dish, along with smoked tofu, and steamed buns for lunch one day.


Sautéed Kabocha Squash

one 2-lb kabocha squash, scrubbed clean
1/4 - 1/2 cups water or vegetable stock
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 stalk scallion, white parts only, thinly sliced
2 tsp salt
1 tsp pepper
1 tsp MSG**
oil, for frying

1. Scrub the squash clean under running water. Split open and clean out the seeds and fibers. Cut the squash into 1" pieces and set aside.

2. Heat 2 Tbsp of oil in a wok over high heat. Add the squash and stirfry vigorously to coat all sides with oil to lightly sear. Add in the garlic, scallion, salt, pepper, MSG, and water or stock. Stir to combine.

3. Cover the wok with a tight lid, and let cook for about 15-20 minutes, until the squash is soft and creamy. Serve hot.

**MSG is commonly used in China. However, it's completely optional.

sweet pea pudding

For a while there, I was utterly obsessed with Mario Batali's Babbo cookbook. It still remains one of my favorites to peruse when I need a jolt of inspiration. The composition and coloring of the photographs, along with the simplicity and authenticity of the recipes, truly makes this a prized cookbook in my collection. The following recipe is inspired by Batali's Sweet Pea Flan.

So I know this is like the complete antithesis of a fall dish. But sometimes you got to just say "to hell with seasonal!" and simply cook with the ingredients that you want. Alice Waters would probably be plotting my death if she ever heard that, but whatever, I cook with what inspires me, be it seasonal or not. Plus, this dish is just so pretty, and really honest-to-God mouth watering.

The pea shoots were a little gift from my father, who picked them up for me at the asian market. A little tip for picking out fresh pea shoots: look for crisp, green, and tender ones. The smaller the better, and pay attention to the tendrils- look for a clean, delicate curl. This recipe calls for carrot juice. I juice my own carrots, which I highly recommend, but if you don't have a juicer, get a bottle of Fresh Samantha's or Odwalla from the store. Lastly, I use a steamer to make the puddings, but a bain-marie (a water bath in the oven) would equally work.

Yes, fall flavors rock, but a little "spring break" can put a huge grin on my face too.


Sweet Pea Pudding with Pea Shoot Salad
serves 6

3/4 lb. frozen or fresh sweet peas
3 eggs
3/4 cup heavy cream
1 tsp lemon juice
1/2 tsp salt
fresh ground pepper

2 cups packed fresh pea shoots
1/4 cup sweet peas

3/4 cup carrot juice
1 Tbsp honey
1/4 cup champagne vinegar
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

1. For the puddings: In a food processor, blend together the peas and eggs until smooth. Spoon into a mixing bowl, and whisk in heavy cream, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

2. Grease the bottom and sides of 6 ramekins. Pour equal amounts of pea mixture into each and steam in a large steamer, on medium-high heat, for 20 minutes. Remove and let cool to room temperature.

3. For salad: Rinse and dry the pea shoots, and set aside with the 1/4 cup of peas. Whisk together carrot juice, honey, vinegar, and olive oil. Pour over the shoots and lightly toss.

4. To serve: Run a knife around the inside edge of the ramekins. Invert onto a serving plate. Add a mound of salad on top of each pudding. Drizzle with any remaining reserved dressing and olive oil around the plate.

kaddo borawni

Hands down the best Afghan restaurant in Baltimore is The Helmand. Dining there is equivalent to dining at a good friend's home, intimate and warm, inviting and familiar. You grow to know the faces of the staff over the years, and grow to love the hearty and filling dishes you can always count on.

The first time I tasted kaddo borawni, I almost fell off my chair it was so good. Pieces of pumpkin are roasted with sugar until they are soft and dripping with sweetness, and served with a garlic-infused yogurt sauce. I have to stop here for a moment, as I wipe the drool off my face.

There are other versions to this dish that in addition to the yogurt, a meat sauce is also served with the pumpkin. I thought, what an interesting combination. I just had to try this out at home. Each component was incredibly simple to make, except for the pumpkin prep: cutting it into pieces and peeling each one with a knife, since the skin was too thick for a vegetable peeler. Here's a quick tip: to open up a pumpkin, just drop it on your kitchen floor a couple of times. The impact will split it open for you.

The resulting dish is so delicious you'll really want to stock up on pumpkins this fall. The flavor combinations are all so unique, and it works! Of course, you can make this dish vegetarian by omitting the meat sauce, just like the way the Helmand serves it up.


Kaddo Borawni

1 sugar pumpkin (about 3 lbs)
4 Tbsp vegetable or corn oil
3/4 cup sugar

2 8-oz. containers yogurt
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/2 tsp salt

1/2 lb lean ground beef
1 small onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp coriander powder
1 tsp ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp fresh minced ginger
1 8-oz. can tomato sauce
2 Tbsp tomato paste


1. For the pumpkin: Split open your pumpkin, clean out the seeds and fibers from the core, and cut into small pieces, about 2-3 inches on each side. Carefully peel with a sharp knife or vegetable peeler.

2. Heat the oil in a large stockpot on high heat. Add the pumpkin, stir to coat with oil, cover and cook for about 5-7 minutes, stirring every few minutes. Transfer the pumpkin into a dutch oven or a large cast iron pot, sprinkle evenly with the sugar, cover, and bake for about 30 minutes in a 350F oven.

3. Meanwhile, make the yogurt sauce. Stir yogurt, garlic, and salt together. Set aside to allow the flavors to intensify.

4. For the meat sauce: Cook the onion in a skillet over medium heat until transluscent. Stir in the beef and cook until lightly browned. Add the garlic, coriander, nutmeg, cumin, and ginger. Cook about 2 minutes to release all the flavors. Add the tomato sauce and paste. You may need to add 1/2 cup of water to thin down the sauce if it is too thick. You want a wetter sauce at this point, as you will need to let it reduce down. Cook for 5 minutes more.

5. To serve: Spoon the pumpkin onto a plate and drizzle with yogurt and meat sauces. Serve warm.

zucchini cheddar madeleines

Madeleines, for me, epitomize everything that is good and right about the biscuit. It is 1) highly dunkable, preferably in a steaming cup of coffee or tea, 2) the most perfect texture, crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, 3) so delicious and buttery with just the right amount of sweetness, and 4) elegantly shaped with scalloped ridges to soak up the aforementioned coffee or tea.

But what about a savory madeleine? Can it be done?

Why, yes! These madeleines are soft and porous on the inside, with the same crisp exterior, made even better with the addition of cheddar cheese. I added grated zucchini for flavor and texture. Have these as a dipping agent for soups, a side to salads, or just to munch on, warm straight from the oven. Of course, you can use any type of cheese you like, gruyere, parmesan, roquefort...along with any type of grated vegetable- try butternut squash or shredded carrot. Savory madeleines are the newest thing, I'm telling you first...


Zucchini Cheddar Madeleines
makes 24

3 zucchini, medium, shredded
4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 tsp salt
1 small onion, diced
1 cup flour
1 Tbsp baking powder
4-5 large eggs (more for a fluffier biscuit)
2 Tbsp milk
1 heaping cup grated sharp cheddar cheese
1 clove garlic, minced fine
1 tsp dried basil
1/2 tsp black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 400F. Grease and flour 2 madeleine pans (standard, not mini size).

2. In a large bowl, toss zucchini with salt, and let stand for 30 minutes. Rinse the salt off with water, and in batches, use your hands to squeeze out any moisture.

3. In a skillet, heat 1 Tbsp of olive oil, and saute the onion until lightly browned. Let cool.

4. In a bowl, mix together flour and baking powder. In another bowl, whisk eggs, milk, remaining olive oil, cheddar, garlic, basil and pepper together until blended. Gently fold in zucchini and onion, then the flour mixture. Be careful not to overmix, as you are aiming for a tender batter.


5. Spoon the batter into the madeleine pans, to the rim of each. Bake for 15-18 minutes, or until golden and puffy. Cool for 10 mintues, and invert pans to loosen. Serve warm.

Give me more!

steamed daikon cake

Also called turnip cake, this dish is a traditional Cantonese snack which you'll find at most all dim-sum restaurants. The batter is shredded daikon, rice flour, Chinese sausage, and dried shrimp. Then poured into a shallow pan, it's steamed, sliced, and pan fried.

This is one of my favorite comfort foods. There's something about the crispy caramelized crust and the soft innards with strips of daikon and savory bits of sweet sausage. I like to dip mine in Chinese "sweet flour sauce," a sauce that's commonly eaten with "moo-shu"type dishes of stir-fry and thin pancakes. You can find it in the condiment aisle of the asian market.


Daikon Rice Cake

3 cups shredded daikon
2 cups rice flour
1 1/2 cups water
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp white pepper
1/8 cup diced Chinese sausage
2 Tbsp dried shrimp, chopped

1. For the daikon: peel and shred the daikon on a box grater. Place in a medium pot, cover with water, and boil with cover on for 20 minutes. Drain, reserving a little of the liquid.

2. In a small skillet, cook the sausage and shrimp together with a bit of oil until it starts to brown.

3. Mix together rice flour and water into a thin batter. Stir in the salt, pepper and sausage mixture. Pour this back into the pot with the daikon. Stirring, cook over low heat for 1 minute. Beware of lumps.

4. Line a 8-inch round cake pan with plastic wrap, leaving a 1/2 inch edge to drape over the sides. Pour the daikon batter into the pan, and steam for 40 minutes. Let cool to room temperature and slice into flat slabs.

5. Pan fry the pieces of daikon cake until golden on all sides. Serve with sweet flour sauce or sauce of your choice.

fried duck egg with french green lentils

I must have been a French farmer's daughter in another lifetime. I have the fondest affections for simply prepared rustic French dishes, even if it's only a crusty baguette and a piece of runny, ripe Époisse, or a simple frisée salad with lardon vinaigrette. Aside from really good Chinese food, this is what makes me happy. This is what I want to eat when I curl up in bed on a cold rainy afternoon. And it's the way I like to cook too, simply, fresh from the land, close to the home, close to the heart.

mire poix - I really wish carrots had right edges...

I love fried eggs. Especially overtop things, like hash, toast, baked beans, even salad. Even better is fried duck egg over stewed lentils. These lentils, in the classic french style, utilizes lentilles de puy from Auvergne in central France, where the nourishing volcanic soil produces this unique variety is has been referred to as "the caviar of lentils." Its excellence has been recognized by the French government in the form of an Appellation d'Origine Contrôllée (AOC), a distinguished certification that's also used for certain cheeses and wine. Of course, you can use any type of lentil you wish, although I truly believe the lentilles de puy tastes superior.

You can make a big batch of these lentils because the leftovers are all that much better, as the flavors soak into the grains over time. It's low in fat and and a great source of protein and nutrients.


Fried duck egg with French green lentils
L'Oeuf de canard sur le plat et lentilles de Puy

1 cup lentils, any variety
1 carrot, diced small
1 stalk celery, diced small
1/2 onion, diced small
4 sprigs thyme
2 strips bacon, diced small
1 Tbsp butter
1 clove garlic, minced
salt and pepper

eggs, duck or chicken
oil or clarified butter, for frying

1. Wash and rinse the lentils with water, and put into a large pot. Cover with 4-5 cups of water, bring to a boil, and simmer uncovered for 20 min.

2. In a saute pan, cook bacon and thyme together until bacon is golden brown and most of the fat is rendered out. Add the onion and cook until it's almost translucent. Add the salt, carrot, celery, garlic, butter, and 1 cup water. Cook for 5 more min to allow the carrot to tenderize.

3. Drain the water from the lentils. Stir in the bacon and vegetable mixture, with all the liquids and cook over low heat for 10 min. Pick out the thyme stems. Flavor with salt and pepper.

4. Fry the egg to your liking with oil or butter, leaving the center soft.

5. Spoon the lentils onto your plate and top with a fried egg. Garnish with chopped parsley or chives.

zucchini scapece

Scapece is a word of Spanish origin that refers to meats and vegetables that are marinated and preserved in vinegar. Traditionally this dish is doused in vinegar and set aside to marinate for at least a day before eating. The mint and garlic are also very authentic flavors.

This would have been a bigger pile of zucchini, but one taste test turned into my demolishing half a bowl. This is a recipe adapted from Italian Two Easy: Simple Recipes from the London River Cafe (this is where Jamie Oliver got his start). It's a southern Italian way of using up zucchini. In a way, these are like healthy fries- no starches, no batter, very little fat since they are quickly fried, then drained.


Zucchini Scapece

1 1/2 lbs zucchini
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp mint leaves
2 dried hot chiles
3 Tbsp red wine vinegar
oil for frying

1. Cut the zucchini into thick matchsticks. Place in a colander, sprinkle with salt, and let sit for 30 min, tossing once or twice. Wash and pat dry the mint. Crush the chiles.

2. In a fry pan, heat oil to 375F. Pat the zucchini dry with paper towels. Fry in batches,until lightly brown. Drain on paper towels. Flash fry the mint and garlic last, about 5-10 sec.

3. Sprinkle the vinegar over the zucchini, and lightly toss with mint, garlic, and crushed chiles.

golden beet terrine

If you have ever peeled beets with your bare hands, you know what a pain the deeply reddish purple stains can be. Golden beets lack this pigmentation, and thus won't discolor your skin or nails. The variety is called Burpee's Golden, a beautifully sunny and golden colored flesh that is both earthy and sweet. I love beets for this reason; it's a diamond in the rough. Not much to look at from the exterior, no lush leaves, fragrance, or attractive coloration, they are actually quite awkward looking, all dimpled and hairy, covered and caked in dirt. But as you slice and peel back a cooked beet, the intense hues are spectacular, and the marbling equally as grand as a piece of Kobe beef. The smell that wafts up to your nose is sweet, like the earth after a rainshower.

I made this terrine (a pressed pate) using a soft farmer's cheese from a local creamery called South Mountain, but mild chevre would be just as great. It's creamy and flavored with red peppers. A final sprinkle of herbs, toasted pinenuts (or walnuts), and a drizzle of infused oil makes this a wonderful appetizer or party dish.


Golden Beet Terrine
South Mountain Creamery Farmer's Cheese, Toasted Pinenuts, White Truffle Oil

12 oz. chevre or other soft cheese
3-4 Tbsp creme fraiche
1 Tbsp honey
2-3 large golden beets
salt and pepper to taste

toasted pinenuts
white truffle oil
chopped parsley, basil, or other fresh herb

1. Scrub the beets well, wrap each individually in foil, and bake at 375F for 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours. When pierced with a knife, the beets should be tender. Let cool. Using a paring knife, peel the skins off the beets and slice into thin (1/16"-1/8" pieces).

2. In a bowl, whip the chevre until smooth, then add in the creme fraiche. Add the honey and salt and pepper to taste.

3. Line a small loaf pan (I use a 7.5"x3.75"x2.5") with saran wrap. Spread a layer of the cheese on the bottom. On top of this, arrange a thin layer of the beets. Repeat this process until you run out of cheese mixture. Fold the plastic wrap over the middle of the loaf pan, and gently use the palm of your hand to press down to even out the layers and release any air bubbles.

4. Refrigerate for at least 4-6 hours.

5. Unwrap the terrine, slice, and arrange on your serving dish. Top with herbs, pinenuts, and drizzle with truffle oil.

roasted butternut squash in nib vinaigrette

Coarsely chopped cacao nibs

My favorite chocolate bar is the Nibby bar from Scharffen Berger. If I could melt it down and pump it directly into my veins, well, I would. It's a 62% semisweet chocolate embedded with crunchy bits of roasted cacao bean (nibs). The nibs are essentially what chocolate is made of. They have a rich intense chocolate taste, without any of the sweetness. Really smoky and complex, somewhat like a roasted coffee bean. At one point, Nibby bars were so popular that they were virtually sold out no sooner than they were put up on shelves. So... I went a little crazy when I visited the Scharffen Berger store at the Ferry Building in San Francisco earlier this year. (The elusive 3-oz. bar was all mine!)

The following recipe is adapted from The Essence of Chocolate, a beautifully written cookbook by John Scharffenberger and Robert Steinberg (the founders of the company) that honors the cacao bean. What sets this book apart from all other chocolate recipe books is that it truly optimizes all the flavors of chocolate, even the subtle notes. Many of the savory recipes were such eye-openers for me in that I never realized how well cacao could bring out the flavors of foods such as goat cheese, beans, and in this case, butternut squash.


The recipe calls for pancetta but I instead used bacon for a bit of extra smokiness. The cacao nibs intensified the subtle sweetness of the squash, which complemented the saltiness of the bacon. If texture excites you, then you must try this dish. Silky smooth squash with crispy bits of bacon and grittiness of the nibs. Trust me, it works.

Roasted Butternut Squash with Nib Vinaigrette
adapted from The Essence of Chocolate

1 4-lb. butternut squash, peeled, cut in half lengthwise, seeded
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 1/2 tsp cacao nibs, coarely chopped
1 shallot, minced
3 oz. pancetta, or bacon

1. Cut the squash into 1/4" slices. Toss with 2 Tbsp olive oil and lay out onto a baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

2. In a 450F oven, roast for 20 min, until golden and soft.

3. Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette. In a skillet, cook the pancetta or bacon until crisp. Drain on paper towels. When cool, crumble into small pieces.

4. Combine the remaining olive oil, vinegar, nibs and shallot in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Gently whisk.

Before the emulsion

5. Place the squash in a large bowl. Add half the vinaigrette and half the pancetta, gently toss to coat. Arrange the squash on a large platter, and drizzle with remaining vinaigrette and top with the pancetta.

sweet wasabi pickles

Got a minute? Well, then you got pickles! These are so quick and simple to make, and can easily be made in small or large batches. I love to use wasabi in salad dressings and marinades- it adds a whole other layer of depth and flavor to a cold dish. Try just a little if you are sensitive to the sinus-clearing effects of this wondrous root!

I must thank my parents for providing me with these fresh from the vine cucumbers from their garden. They were still covered with a layer of pricklies. If you don't have access to super fresh cukes, I recommend using Kirby cucumbers, a smaller variety that are ~6 inches long, since they are firmer and crunchier.

Sweet Wasabi Pickles

2 medium cucumbers (firm to the touch), sliced extra thin
2 tbsp rice wine vinegar
2 tbsp mirin**
2-3 tsp sugar (depending on how sweet you like them)
1.5-2 tbsp wasabi paste
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

Spread the cucumber slices in a thin layer in a shallow pan or casserole dish. (Enough so that they do not sit mounded.) Whisk together vinegar, mirin, sugar, and wasabi. Pour over the cucumbers. Sprinkle the pepper flakes on top.

You can eat them right away, or let marinade in the fridge for a few hours.

** Mirin is Japanese sweet rice cooking wine. It has a low alcohol content which lends it a unique flavor. You can find this at Asian markets, next to the soy sauces. For the best tasting mirins, you want to look at the ingredients on the back of the bottle. Make sure that the alcohol content is high, or is one of the first 2-3 major ingredients listed.

ra-ta-TOO-ee

Ratatouille. What a funny little word for such a timeless dish. (It comes from the French touiller, which means "to stir"). And now, more than ever, home cooks all across the country are stewing up various versions of this French provencal dish, after seeing the new Pixar movie of the same name. It utilizes summer's bounty of fresh veggies- eggplant (but aubergine sounds so much better, doesn't it?), tomatoes, sweet onions and peppers, and squash and zucchini (courgettes). The beauty of this dish is that no matter how it is made, rustic or refined, stewed or baked, diced or sliced, the sweet and earthy ingredients invariably shine.

The movie version of ratatouille was created by chef Thomas Keller of the French Laundry in Napa Valley. In fact, he was one of the culinary consultants on set. His animated version was his "modern take" on the traditional dish, in which the vegetables are thin sliced on a mandoline and arranged artfully in an oval casserole dish, covered with parchment, and baked. It is more like a tian (a Provençal dish of baked gratineed mixed vegetables) than a stew. I prefer the more rustically imperfect version, as I like the flavors and textures to be melded together.

Having originated in the sun-drenched gardens of the Niçoise countryside, ratatouille is a great pairing to most meats, especially game and lamb. I've seen recipes that use all sorts of combinations of aromatics including thyme, basil, parsley, and herbes de provence. It's flavorful enough to be served on its own, or as a great accompaniment with coddled eggs for breakfast.

I consulted one of my favorite cookbooks for a recipe- Chez Panisse Cooking by Paul Bertolli with Alice Waters. According to Bertolli, "ratatouille is best served cold, with grilled bread or anchovies....and when refrigerated for several days, will improve in flavor." In this version, the vegetables are all sauteed seperately, except for the eggplant which is roasted, and then combined at the end with minimal stirring to preserve the integrity of the original slices. Yes, I will most definitely be making this again this week!

Ratatouille
Chez Panisse Cooking
serves 6

4 Japanese eggplant, sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 yellow onion, sliced
4 bell peppers, sliced 1/4 inch strips
2 yellow squash, sliced 1/4 inch thick
2 zucchini, sliced 1/4 inch thick
4 tomato, seeded and diced
2 tbsp fruity red wine vinegar
2 tbsp tomato paste (my own addition)
1 tbsp capers
2 tbsp pitted Nicoise olives, chopped
2 tbsp chopped parsley
1 tbsp chopped basil
2 cloves garlic, minced
extra virgin olive oil

Roast the eggplant with 3 tbsp olive oil, 1/4 cup water, salt and pepper in a 400F oven, for 20-25 minutes. Cover the pan with foil to allow the eggplant to steam cook while in the oven.
In a large saucepot, saute the onion with 3 tbsp olive oil until soft and light brown. Add the peppers, season with salt and pepper, and cook over high heat until peppers start to brown. Add the vinegar, and cook 1 minute. Transfer to a bowl.
Saute the squash with 2 tbsp olive oil until tender. Add the reserved onion and peppers back in, along with the diced tomato. Fold a few times, but do not stir. Bring to a simmer and cook for 2 min. Remove from heat and let cool. Then add the capers, olives, parsley, basil and garlic. If necessary, correct the seasoning with more vinegar, salt or pepper.
Before serving, drizzle a little extra virgin olive oil over each portion.

a spring hike

Mr.S and I wanted to do something fun together, just him and me, for our 2 year anniversary, so we went on a hike in Gunpowder State Park on saturday. I love to hike the Shenandoah Nat'l Park trails in Virginia, so this was my first time exploring a MD trail. We started our day with coffee and a Naked Juice at the Daily Grind, then onto Wegman's for some portable treats for the hike. I got a banana (potassium) and beef jerky (protein) and Mr.S picked up a potato knish, ham & gruyere sandwich, soychips, and water. Off we went with the clouds looming overhead. Ah well, it was an adventure!

There were signs of spring all over- budding branches, leafy vegetation along the bank, wild flowers, a gushing stream down the hillside. My favorite were the fiddlehead ferns that grew in little groves, close to the ground, silvery-haired and resilient to its surroundings. It's the ultimate sign that winter has gone and left.


I have not seen fiddlehead ferns on a Baltimore menu as of yet; if anyone knows who makes a dish out of these little fellas, please drop me a line.

According to Today food editor Phil Lempert, tender, young fiddlehead fronds resemble the tops of fiddles, hence their name. The taste of these unusual greens is reminiscent of asparagus, yet nutty. Don’t be tempted to pick these ferns yourself, as some are poisonous. The following salad is the perfect seasonal pairing of treats from the forest, fiddleheads and morels.

Fiddlehead Fern and Morel Mushroom Salad with Winchester Aged Gouda

Fifth Floor Restaurant

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS

• 1/2 pound fiddlehead ferns

• 1/2 pound morel mushrooms

• 3 tablespoons clarified butter (or vegetable oil)

• 2 tablespoons walnut flavored oil, plus extra to dress the plate

• 2 tablespoons 100-year-old balsamic vinegar

• 1 small piece of Winchester Aged Gouda to shave on top

• Salt and pepper to taste

1. Trim the fiddlehead ferns
2. Blanch the ferns in salted, boiling water for one minute
3. Chill in ice water immediately to cool
4. Wash and slice the morel mushrooms
5. Sauté mushrooms in butter until tender, then cool
6. Combine ferns and mushrooms in a medium mixing bowl, and toss with oil and vinegar
7. Season with salt and pepper to taste
8. Arrange about 1/2 cup of salad in the middle of a plate
9. Drizzle walnut oil and balsamic in a circle around the salad
10. Shave a few slices of cheese on top

The hike ended up being about 7-8 miles. On the way back, the trail blazes were less than adequate, so a couple times we were lost and also a bit miffed from the spring showers. For the most part, it was truly wonderful to enjoy the peace and quiet and clean fresh air out there. Following alongside the river was really quite serene and a great way to get some exercise in without really thinking about it. We'll have to do our research and find more trails to discover in the area.

boiled peanuts

I found myself with leftover mustard greens last week in my fridge and decided to make a salad with edamame. At the last minute, I boiled up some peanuts and tossed those in as well. Boiled peanuts has always been a favorite snack of mine since childhood. I love them plain, in cold salads, and sprinkled on congee.


Chinese-Style Boiled Peanuts

1 cup raw peanuts, with skin on
1/2 tsp five spice powder
2-3 star anise, whole
1/2 tsp chinese peppercorn, whole
1 tsp salt

Combine all ingredients in a pot of water and let it come to a boil. Reduce to medium heat and simmer with lid on, for 30 minutes or until peanuts are soft and yielding, but not mushy.

It came as quite a surprise to me when I learned from an episode of Paula Deen that Southerners also enjoy their share of boiled peanuts, low-country style. I did some research into the subject and found that they are a traditional snack in North and South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama and Mississippi. Boiled peanuts are green or raw nuts that are boiled in salty water for hours outdoors over a fire. The shells turn soggy, and the peanuts take on a fresh, legume flavor. They have been around since the Civil War when, in times of meat and bread shortage, the Confederate troops were given peanuts as an important source of protein. The salt works as a preservative, and the boiling kills impurities and bacteria.

A traditional way that old-timers like to eat boiled peanuts is to drop the shelled peanuts into a bottle of cold RC Cola and gulp down the combo. Southerners will tell you boiled peanuts should always be accompanied by a beer, sweet tea, or a soft drink.

Low Country Boiled Peanuts

4 to 5 pounds green (raw) peanuts in shell
4 to 6 quarts water
1 cup plain salt

Wash unshelled peanuts thoroughly in cold water until water runs clear; then soak in cool, clean water for approximately 30 minutes before cooking.

In a large pot, place soaked peanuts and cover completely with water. Add 1 cup of salt per gallon of water. Cook, covered, on high heat for 4 to 7 hours.

Boil the peanuts for about 4 hours, then taste. Taste again in 10 minutes, both for salt and texture. Keep cooking and tasting until the peanuts reach desired texture (when fully cooked, the texture of the peanut should be similar to that of a cooked dry pea or bean).

Remove from heat and drain peanuts.

Peanuts may be eaten hot or at room temperature, or chilled in the refrigerator and eaten cold, shelling as you eat them.