geisha sushi bar

Some of the best sushi spots I've had the pleasure of dining at in Tokyo were complete dives, many times subterranean refuges in an office building or dark alley. I have a theory. The deeper down you go, the better the sushi. Similarly, my descent into the newly opened Geisha Sushi started the same way. Located in the basement of an office building on Charles Street, Geisha tends to get packed for the lunchtime rush, but is overlooked in the evenings. It is presided over by chef Kim, who has over 26 years of extensive training starting in his native Korea, moving on to Japan, and here to the U.S. to open his first restaurant. Soft spoken and well mannered, chef Kim is focused and a perfectionist when it comes to ingredients and presentation. Every morning (and we're talking 4-5am), he scouts out the best cuts of fish at the Jessup fish market. The quality of fish truly spoke for its self- creamy, fresh texture and taste.

With our group of 4, we ordered the "Love Platter B," an impressive presentation of assorted sashimi and specialty rolls. Generous to say the least, the chef offered us 6 kinds of sashimi (salmon, tuna, white tuna, mackerel, red snapper, and yellowtail), salmon roe, 4 of his creations, an eel and avocado roll, and my favorite, fresh uni riding on the back of a "cucumber slug." It was amazingly sweet, with the texture of a soft peach.


Of the specialty rolls, the Imperial Shrimp (shrimp tempura, cucumber, avocado, crab, scallion, masago, and eel) and Green Tuna (generous portions of spicy tuna and tempura flakes, topped with avocado and more tuna) were my favorite. The New York roll (apple, crab, mayo, and masago) was nice and mildly sweet, but kept falling apart on my plate. The Bay Bridge roll (crab, cucumber, masago, wrapped in steamed shrimp and avocado) was also quite nice, covered in a light white creamy sauce.

Imperial shrimp roll

Holiday roll

Chef Kim was kind enough to send us a specialty roll, on the house. It was the Holiday roll, presented like a whole fish, with the asparagus poking out as the tail. It was delicious, except for maybe the cream cheese, which I am not a fan of...by the way, when and why did Philadelphia cream cheese ever find its way into sushi?

This was one of the most aesthetically pleasing sushi presentations I've seen in a long time, and really, ever in Baltimore. Chef Kim's knife skills are impeccable, and he has a real eye for color and balance. It's clear that he's all about the details; take this lovely edible rosette, for instance.

It's with a sad heart that I share this great new find of a restaurant...I want to keep it all to myself and my friends. But someone would have surely exposed this jewel soon anyway. I, for one, will most definitely become a regular here, as long as Chef Kim continues to offer me the highest quality of fish and his sophisticated, artistic presentation. And no doubt he won't.


Sushi Bar Geisha
201 N. Charles Street
Baltimore, MD 21201

foodie blogroll

Last week, I joined the foodie blogroll, a diverse community of food lovers and bloggers. Sponsored by Jenn of The Leftover Queen, it's a great networking tool to connect with other passionate foodies with similar interests. It's easy to join in!

And it's growing like crazy!

farm fresh duck eggs

I am the happiest girl today. For the longest time, I have been searching the ends of Baltimore stores and markets for fresh duck eggs. I'd just about given up my quest when last week at work, I met a local chicken farmer, Homer Walden, who listened intently as I lamented to him my duck egg woes. Walden raises organic chickens using an experimental method of portable pens to round up his chicks. These pens are moved throughout the day to different patches of grass to give the chicks a continuous feed of fresh grass and bugs. In turn, the grasses on which they feed is naturally fertilized by their droppings. It is quite the clever and economical approach to raising happy and clean poultry.

Today, he surprised me at work, bearing half a dozen large, pale white, duck eggs! These are Pekin duck eggs, one of the most commonly domesticated farm bred ducks in the U.S. The eggs are larger than even jumbo size chicken eggs, white, with a thick shell that is more difficult to crack.

Duck eggs are prized by so many bakers, over chicken eggs, because of its unique yolk and whites composition. When whipped, the whites are more stable, giving baked goods incredible volume and lightness. Meanwhile, the yolks have a higher fat content and thus lend desserts more richness. Duck eggs would be perfect in sponge cakes and creme brulees.

I grew up eating duck eggs. They were such an integral part of my childhood- breakfasts with congee and salted duck eggs were a staple. They were of a different breed though, the eggs were smaller and of a pale mossy green color. I'm so ecstatic that I can get fresh duck eggs now..hopefully there are others in Baltimore who equally love them as much. (They are $3 for half a dozen.)

zucchini scapece

Scapece is a word of Spanish origin that refers to meats and vegetables that are marinated and preserved in vinegar. Traditionally this dish is doused in vinegar and set aside to marinate for at least a day before eating. The mint and garlic are also very authentic flavors.

This would have been a bigger pile of zucchini, but one taste test turned into my demolishing half a bowl. This is a recipe adapted from Italian Two Easy: Simple Recipes from the London River Cafe (this is where Jamie Oliver got his start). It's a southern Italian way of using up zucchini. In a way, these are like healthy fries- no starches, no batter, very little fat since they are quickly fried, then drained.


Zucchini Scapece

1 1/2 lbs zucchini
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp mint leaves
2 dried hot chiles
3 Tbsp red wine vinegar
oil for frying

1. Cut the zucchini into thick matchsticks. Place in a colander, sprinkle with salt, and let sit for 30 min, tossing once or twice. Wash and pat dry the mint. Crush the chiles.

2. In a fry pan, heat oil to 375F. Pat the zucchini dry with paper towels. Fry in batches,until lightly brown. Drain on paper towels. Flash fry the mint and garlic last, about 5-10 sec.

3. Sprinkle the vinegar over the zucchini, and lightly toss with mint, garlic, and crushed chiles.

golden beet terrine

If you have ever peeled beets with your bare hands, you know what a pain the deeply reddish purple stains can be. Golden beets lack this pigmentation, and thus won't discolor your skin or nails. The variety is called Burpee's Golden, a beautifully sunny and golden colored flesh that is both earthy and sweet. I love beets for this reason; it's a diamond in the rough. Not much to look at from the exterior, no lush leaves, fragrance, or attractive coloration, they are actually quite awkward looking, all dimpled and hairy, covered and caked in dirt. But as you slice and peel back a cooked beet, the intense hues are spectacular, and the marbling equally as grand as a piece of Kobe beef. The smell that wafts up to your nose is sweet, like the earth after a rainshower.

I made this terrine (a pressed pate) using a soft farmer's cheese from a local creamery called South Mountain, but mild chevre would be just as great. It's creamy and flavored with red peppers. A final sprinkle of herbs, toasted pinenuts (or walnuts), and a drizzle of infused oil makes this a wonderful appetizer or party dish.


Golden Beet Terrine
South Mountain Creamery Farmer's Cheese, Toasted Pinenuts, White Truffle Oil

12 oz. chevre or other soft cheese
3-4 Tbsp creme fraiche
1 Tbsp honey
2-3 large golden beets
salt and pepper to taste

toasted pinenuts
white truffle oil
chopped parsley, basil, or other fresh herb

1. Scrub the beets well, wrap each individually in foil, and bake at 375F for 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours. When pierced with a knife, the beets should be tender. Let cool. Using a paring knife, peel the skins off the beets and slice into thin (1/16"-1/8" pieces).

2. In a bowl, whip the chevre until smooth, then add in the creme fraiche. Add the honey and salt and pepper to taste.

3. Line a small loaf pan (I use a 7.5"x3.75"x2.5") with saran wrap. Spread a layer of the cheese on the bottom. On top of this, arrange a thin layer of the beets. Repeat this process until you run out of cheese mixture. Fold the plastic wrap over the middle of the loaf pan, and gently use the palm of your hand to press down to even out the layers and release any air bubbles.

4. Refrigerate for at least 4-6 hours.

5. Unwrap the terrine, slice, and arrange on your serving dish. Top with herbs, pinenuts, and drizzle with truffle oil.

fogo de chão

They say the abundance of gastronomic choices in the world today has caused the "omnivore's dilemma." But on any given night at Fogo de Chão, it's a real carnivore's dilemma. As 15 different kinds of spit-roasted meat come at you, your only way of softening the impact is to turn your disc from green to red. This buys you at least some time as you dig into a piece after piece of juicy flesh. When you come up for air, and turn your disc to green, the dance begins again. Yes friends, this is the meat-lover's mecca.


A large group of us gathered at the new Fogo de Chão in the Inner Harbor for a birthday dinner. We arrived, starved and ready for ...well, MEAT. The doors leading in were dauntingly heavy, almost saying to you that this is no place for wimpy vegetarians who probably can't gather the strength to even open our doors mwahaha! Expecting the interior to be murals of Brazilian landscapes and paintings of the noble animals who gave up their lives to be on the menu, I was instead surrounded by chic, minimalist decor, done in natural woods and rippled glass. I sipped on a caipirinha at the sleek bar. Made using Cigana brand cachaça, it was smooth and not overly sweet.

Our server invited us to the salad bar first, a clever ploy designed to make us fill up on anything of the non-meat variety. Unimpressive to say the least, the selection was bountiful, yes, but nonetheless uninspired. Plump asparagus, artichoke hearts, beets, sundried tomato, prosciutto, and smoked salmon. Where was the authenticity in this? Not to mention, the cheese. A large wheel of parmeggiano reggiano layed out as well as a deep bowl of mozzarella balls, and a piece of Idiazabal, I believe. All fresh and good, but bring on the meat!


The meat was juicy and well seasoned. My favorites were the filet mignon wrapped in bacon, the leg of lamb and rack of lamb. Not the slightest bit of gaminess, the lamb was tender and heavenly. The other cuts were not as memorable, and the house specialty, the Picanha (a portion of the sirloin), was actually a bit dried out. One issue I had was when I asked for a medium-rare piece of meat, it usually showed up on my plate medium to well-done. Not the end of the world, I still ate it. After a while though, it all started to taste the same. It's what I call the "conveyor belt" conundrum. This is the problem when there are so many different meats to try- you hardly have the time or tastebud capacity to individually savor and appreciate any which one type. The uniqueness of each cut of meat is lost. Somehow, they all taste just "good" and not spectacular.


The servers place on your table starchy sides for everyone to share, yet another attempt to fill you up on less costly items. Fried bananas (yes this was probably the best part of my meal), fried polenta, mashed potatoes with paprika and cheese, and a basket of cheese rolls.

I sit here, flushed with a meat afterglow, contemplating if my meal was really worth it. At $42.50 a head, it was definitely pricey for someone like me who enjoys meat but not to that extent. For that price, I would much rather have gone next door to the Capital Grille for a nicely marbled dry-aged Porterhouse. I'd say there are two types of people who would consider Fogo a good deal: those who have more than one stomach and can eat their weight in meat, and tourists, who have a tendency to fall into this kind of spectacle trap. Overall what you are paying for is the name and the chain, the show and service, and all-you-can-eat above average cuts of meat. If it's authenticity you are looking for, well, you are most likely not to find that anywhere here in the Inner Harbor (i.e. PF Chang's). I'm glad I went for the experience of it all, and you should try it too. Just give your wallet and your arteries a little pep talk beforehand.






Fogo de Chao
600 East Pratt Street
Suite 102
Baltimore, MD 21202

gertrude's

I grabbed lunch with a friend last week at Gertrude's at the BMA. It was the perfect day; we sat under the canopy tent, on the patio by the fountain. Gertrude's is well known for its Chesapeake style, Eastern shore cooking, with many dishes using backfin or lump crabmeat and oysters. I ordered the sandwich and soup combo-

SoBo Shrimp Salad
Steamed spiced shrimp, lemon-parsley dressing, lettuce and
tomato on seven-grain bread, with potato chips

and

Miss Jean’s Red Crab Soup
Traditional vegetable-based Maryland crab soup
with backfin crabmeat

The shrimp salad was unremarkable, there was definitely Old Bay in it, which covered up any traces of lemon or parsley. The consistency was quite loose and wet, making the shrimps go slip-and-slide everywhere. I felt like the chips were a cop-out. Considering the quality of the food on the menu, the atmosphere, and location, the presentation of the Utz-like potato chips on my plate just didn't mesh. I understand there idea of going for a "lunchbox" kind of lunch, but would it really be asking so much if they had made homemade chips...hell, I'd even take Kettle chips over what I got on my plate! Just a suggestion.

Whoever Miss Jean was, sure got it right on the Maryland crab soup recipe. Light tomato broth with corn and beans sets the stage for large sweet pieces of hand-picked crabmeat. And quite a lot of it, for just a small cup of soup. Next time I think I will just order a bowl of this.

Gertrude's does a good brunch service, with standout dishes like Gutman Avenue eggs, and Back Creek Inn Crab Quiche. The complimentary basket of cornbread and biscuits is enough to win my heart, and stomach. If you are going for dinner, try going on Tuesdays, they have $10 and $12 dinner specials, which are great deals. Gertrude's is sophisticated and unpretentious, located in a serene setting, with a bit of an urban flair. Don't forget to visit the BMA after your meal, it's free now.

Gertude's
10 Art Museum Drive
Baltimore, MD 21218

zha jiang mian

I celebrated my third birthday with a big steaming bowl of noodles, which I so coveted. With the bowl at the edge of the table and my mouth strategically placed, I shoveled every last bit of noodle and sauce into that vast cavernous hole. Yea, I was a fat and happy 3 year old, with a wicked bowl cut. And I loved zha jiang mian, a dish that to this day, I still turn to for comfort and memories of my grandfather's kitchen. It's a very traditional noodle dish from Northern China, consisting of wheat noodles covered in a thick sauce of ground pork, garlic, and fermented bean paste. Usually fresh julienned carrot and cucumber is piled on top for crunch. This dish is like the Chinese equivalent of mac and cheese, easy and cheap to make, filling and hearty, and just as culturally significant.

Zha jiang mian literally means "fried sauce noodles." That's because when the sauce is cooked, the bean paste is added to a generous amount of sizzling peanut oil at the bottom of the wok. The kind I grew up with was brown in color, but other versions use yellow bean paste. The Korean version, ja jang myeon, was adapted from the Chinese, and though it sounds exactly the same, it uses many different ingredients. The bean paste is roasted and fermented, lending it a dark brown, almost black-ish color. Diced zucchini and onion is usually added to the sauce, and instead of ground pork, squid and clams are oftentimes used.

In Baltimore, there are no Chinese restaurants that offer up ja jiang mian, but you can find the Korean version at Nam Kang (2126 Maryland Ave.). You can probably get it at Lotte Plaza too, at their small eatery inside the store.

Many vegetarian versions of the sauce can be made, by replacing the pork with scrambled egg. You can add any leftover diced veggies you want, that is the beauty of this dish.


Zha Jiang Mian
yields 2 cups of sauce

Oriental style noodles (long thin white noodles, with wheat flour, water and salt listed as the only ingredients)

4 Tbsp chunjang (Korean fermented black bean paste)
1/3 lb. ground pork
1 Tbsp Shaoxing rice cooking wine
1 small onion, diced
1 small zucchini, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 Tbsp sugar
1 tsp minced ginger

julienned carrot and cucumber

1. In a large pot or wok, heat up 1 Tbsp oil, and add ground pork. Stir to break up the meat into small pieces, and cook through, adding cooking wine and half the garlic. Push to one side of the pot and add in the diced onion, zucchini, garlic and ginger. Stirfry all ingredients for 5-10 min until onions and meat start to brown up nicely.

2. Stir in the bean paste and enough water to make a sauce of thin consistency (1/2 cup). Add the sugar. Simmer for 5-10 min until the sauce has thickened up.

3. Meanwhile, cook the noodles according to the package label, usually 5-6 min in boiling water.

4. To serve**, heap the noodles in a bowl and ladle the sauce overtop. Garnish with carrots and cucumber.

**Traditionally, many Chinese like to drizzle on top Chinese rice vinegar, call Chinkiang Vinegar. It is dark, like balsamic.

avocado meets chocolate...

...and the rest, they say, is history.


In Indonesia, kids and adults alike go crazy for a popular shake called alpokat made of blended avocado and milk, then drizzled with chocolate syrup. Oh my. Both fresh milk and condensed milk versions are equally as beloved. It's a flavor combination that really works and complements each other. And when mixed together, resembles sludgy muddy goo. Nevertheless, it's thick and creamy, a bit like a chocolate malt shake.

My take on alpokat is a duo of ice creams: avocado and milk chocolate. A spoonful of this, a spoonful of that, swirl the two, and eat both. What could be better than playing with your food?

Avocado Ice Cream
yields 1 pint

6 oz. avocado (about 2 medium)
2 tsp fresh lime juice
1/4 cup plus additional 2 Tbsp sugar
3/4 cup whole milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tsp vanilla extract (optional)

1. In a food processor or a blender, puree avocado, lime juice, sugar and whole milk until smooth. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve to remove any clumps. Whisk in the cream and vanilla extract.

2. Chill in the refrigerator for about 1 hour.

3. Pour the chilled mixture into an ice cream maker and allow it to run for 5-10 minutes only. Place in freezer to solidify slightly, about 30 min, and serve.