graham crackers

I came back from my sunny vacation, only to be met with dreary weather and gray skies. As I found myself slipping into the post-vacation blues, the only cure I could think of for my sad state was making some comfort food... homemade graham crackers. Mmmm, remember eating these out of the box when you were little? Somehow they always made me feel better. The graham cracker definitely doesn't get enough recognition. Often overshadowed by fancier, more buttery cookies with chips and nuts, the graham cracker is sadly shooed into a dark corner of the cookie world. Maybe it should be renamed a graham cookie or just a really damn good honey and cinnamon crisp. And let's rethink the dull shapes for a moment... perhaps if they didn't come in such banal slabs, and instead in endearing shapes and cutouts, they'd fall back into favor.

I felt like a kid making these cookies, cutting the dough out into shapes of my favorite animals, pigs and owls. (I love pigs for their loyalty and owls for their wisdom...so they say.) What a lighthearted and comforting way to send out the old year and welcome the new. And a kitchen that smells of sweet butter and cinnamon to boot!

Happy 2008 to everyone.



Graham Crackers
makes about 3 dozen cutouts

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp salt
8 Tbsp unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 Tbsp sugar
2 Tbsp packed brown sugar
2 tsp honey

1. Combine the flours, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt in a bowl and set aside. In a mixing bowl, cream the butter, both sugars and honey until light and pale in color, about 2-3 minutes. Add in the dry ingredients and blend well for the dough to come together. With your hands, form into a ball.

2. Between 2 sheets of plastic wrap or parchment paper, roll out the dough to about 1/8" thickness. Use cookie cutters to make desired shapes, or a pizza cutter to cut out rectangles for a traditional graham cracker shape. Carefully transfer cutouts onto a cookie sheet lined with parchment or Silpat.

3. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to firm up the cookies. Meanwhile preheat the oven to 350F.

4. Remove the cookie sheets from the refrigerator and with a fork, gently poke a few holes in each cutout. Bake for 12-14 minutes or until they are a golden brown. Remove, and cool completely on the baking sheets.

christmas in aruba

Every Christmas, we escape the crummy cold weather for the sun and beaches of the Leeward Islands, a trio of three small isles that make up part of the Netherland Antilles, just a couple miles off the coast of Venezuela. Loaded down with a medley of SPFs, sarongs, trunks, and sandals, we're always ready to kick back and just chill out. It's rather odd to see any semblance of Christmas in such a tropical place, almost an artificial holiday paradise. But it's really quite catchy, all of it, with all the Christmas carols remixed with a bit of island twang.


Arubans live by the motto "One Happy Island." Seriously, how can you not be happy with such gorgeous beaches, weather, and an island that stops for iguana crossings? I love the mingled heritage of the people here, each distinctive yet fused together through history and time. There are the Dutch and Indonesian flavors, the spice of Venezuelans and Latin Americans, the local Papiamento with their strong West African influences, and the more recent addition of Chinese immigrants and their cuisine. I picked up some various local recipes of which I will write about later... iguana soup, anyone?

If you ever get a chance to go, I am more than happy to introduce some great restaurants, hole in the walls, quiet beaches, and things to do.

tools of the trade

I have a drawer in my kitchen full of gadgets and tools alone. It's been sitting open for a few weeks now, well, simply because it's too full to close! In it there are rolling pins, donut cutters, pastry cutters, box graters, zesters and peelers, a microplane, an egg slicer, an egg topper, an egg poacher, a cherry pitter, whisks and funnels, piping tips and squeeze bottles... the list is never-ending. All these objects to make cooking (and life) presumably easier, and my kitchen that much more cluttered. It's a real sickness I tell you; I can never get enough.

In stark contrast, my grandfather, the great chef of the family works with an army of much humbler means. There are three, count them 3!, knives in his block, a cleaver, a straight smaller chef's knife, and a paring knife. Add a pair of well seasoned kitchen shears and chopsticks, and his repertoire is complete. All this leads to me to ask the question: do great cooks truly need all those hyped up tools and gadgets? Does the equipment make the chef? I personally, would like to believe so, or else all the money I've spent on that one drawer alone was in naught. Much to my chagrin, I must admit perhaps I was wrong, and I certainly must concede to the old saying that the only tools a good cook needs are the ones on the ends of his arms. Or in other terms, those within arms reach, and certainly not buried at the bottom of a modern gadgetry drawer.


My grandfather is part of the old-school way of cooking, the part that I admire and aspire to be one day. You know, no recipes, no timers, no Kitchen-aids, just a wok and a steamer will just about do. He laughs when he sees me writing down certain measurements or asks how much soy sauce or cooking wine goes into a dish. "Just enough!" he'll always retort. Well, what good does that do me? (I've been getting pretty good now about guesstimating his precise measurements.) To someone like him who's cooked these same dishes for a lifetime now, the ingredients and amounts are memorized in the flick of a wrist, a pinch between the fingers, and a glance at the consistency of a sauce. Now, whenever I try this at home, the result is edible, but vastly different. I need my microplane! I like easy-to-follow recipes. But only sometimes. And I have been getting very good at winging certain things. It comes down to time and practice. Now that I feel confidently armed with a battalion of new age kitchen tools, I'm ready to venture into my grandfather's world, sparse may it be, but rewarding and ever so valuable to a young cook in the long run.

i love new york (no, not the show)

Oh, New York City at Christmas time, especially when it snows, just makes a girl glow with happiness. What a workout for our feet, and not to mention our wallets. Mr.S and I hit the city two weeks back for some holiday mayhem, and catching, just in time, the first snow of the season. At the end of the day, we rode the train back to Baltimore, tired and sore, only to be faced with 4 inches of ice and snow piled up on my car! No matter, since we returned with a fine collection of loot, treasures from our favorite stores...here is a quick rundown of what's on our NYC hotlist:

For a small space, Kid Robot packs a big punch. It's a unique toy store that carries vinyls and collectables, figurines and imports. We always walk out with a bagful of blind-box toys. I love the Ugly Dolls. Celebrity sighting #1: Timothy Roth.

French clothier A.P.C. is minimal with clean and classic silhouettes. Mr.S raves about their durable and well-fitted denim. I have my eye on a navy wool capelet and a belted white trench coat. Their Soho store is their first in the U.S.

I am in awe of Uniqlo, a Japanese H&M-like, but more upscale store. They are not afraid to use color and bold shapes, and are always on the cutting edge of what is trendy, with this season being skinny tapered jeans (of all sizes and washes) and oversize cashmere sweaters. The best deal ever: FREE tailoring and alterations, ready for you within an hour!

Mr.S adores Japanese import MUJI, a lifestyle store (once only available at the MoMA Store) that boasts a simple, minimalist design in the truest Japanese ways on everything from stationery to housewares to cotton tees to furniture. Everything is simple and functional, with clean lines. Check out the porcelain noodle bowls and soy sauce dispensers, perfect for a dinner of hot soba soup.

Next door to Muji is CB2, otherwise known as Crate and Barrel 2, a younger, hipper, even more affordable version of its original counterpart. Adorable design meets functionality, meets well, damn cheap pricetags! I walked out with olive platters, crescent-shaped appetizer plates, and simple porcelain oblong trays.

Who doesn't love ultra-trendy sportswear with an 80's gym-like flair? Co-owned by actor Jason Lee, WESC stands for WE are a Superlative Conspiracy. You'll find many an urban-chic sweatshirt, logo-emblazoned, and filmy tees with geometric designs and textiles.

And next door to WESC is Supreme, a small skate and bike shop with hard to find designer Nikes and one-of-a-kind boards. Definitely a boys club of sorts. Mr.S had his eye on a pair of gold Oakley Frogskins.

Even better than Sur la Table! And that's saying alot. I love Broadway Panhandler mecca for an emerging young chef or baker. In my cart at the end of the night were French casserole dishes, an egg topper, a slurry of miniature fluted pastry molds, uniquely shaped for its amazing selection of everything-you-would-ever-need cooking and baking supplies. A true cookie cutters, ring molds, loaf pans, and gold and silver leaf. Next time, I will go back for the Global cleaver and magnetic knife rack....drool. Note: BP has moved from Soho to the East Village. We mistakenly went to the original location...but we did find Celebrity sighting #2: Willam Dafoe.

Think eclectic, homey, upscale comfort food. Prune is the mastermind of chef ... , a collection of meals and dishes from her childhood, radishes with butter, roasted marrow, golden merveilles. I love quirky, heart-warming eateries that are innovative without trying so hard.

I was cold and hungry, and Balthazar provided a warm haven for lunch. Alas, it was not to be, since the Wednesday lunch wait was 2.5 hours! We walked away sad and disappointed, with the lingering image of golden pan-fried skate with brown butter and hazelnuts, and warm frites on our minds.

And so we stumbled upon another little treasure around the corner, the French Culinary Institute Restaurant, a teaching restaurant for the students in training of the famed school. The menu changes daily, with traditional and contemporary French dishes. The amuse bouche was a bite-size crabcake with a nice remoulade. I ordered the poached cod with braised leeks and smoked cod cheeks. The technique was perfect, but overall the spices and salt somewhat restrained, as the fish was merely bathed in cream...how very French. Mr.S had the pan-seared pork chop with roasted tomatoes and wilted spinach. Good, but yet again, very much "culinary school"-esque.



My favorite bakery in Chinatown is Fay Da Bakery. I have an ongoing list of pastries to try, but some must-haves are chestnut buns, cha shao (roast pork) buns, flaky taro pastry balls, coconut and green tea mochi balls, pineapple kaya buns, and all the bubble teas.

For dinner, Mr.S took me to Haru, a popular sushi spot with a few locations through out the city. Celebrity sighting #3: The Apprentice's Carolyn Kepcher. The lychee cocktail is a classic. The crispy duck appetizer could have been crispier, but still quite good, with a flavorful teriyaki-hoisin sauce over soft pancakes. The generous cuts of sashimi are fresh and well worth the price. The wait staff is attentive and a trip, our server was a young Laotian man who went by the nickname Captain Jack Sparrow.

matcha cream

In response to my previous post on the TKO's and my homemade matcha (green tea) cream filling, I've had a couple requests for the recipe. It's very simple.

Matcha Cream Filling:
1/2 cup heavy cream
8 oz. white chocolate, chopped
1 1/2 tsp matcha powder

1. For the Filling: In a small pan, bring the cream to a boil. Remove from heat and add the chocolate. Let stand for 1 minute, then whisk to melt the chocolate until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl, and let stand for 6 hours to thicken up.

2. Stir in the matcha powder under there are no more streaks, and everything is well blended.

tko's (thomas keller oreos)

I kind of really love Oreo's. Eating them now reminds me of many an afternoon watching Hallmark after-school specials, backpack tossed asunder, with a glass of OJ (damn that lactose intolerant thing!). There's something about the Oreo, not quite fully "chocolate-y", more muddy and black, and a bit gritty, but paired with that chalky vanilla cream, has made a name for itself. When I came across this recipe in John Scharffenberger's The Essence of Chocolate, I decided I had to recreate it. The cookies are available only at Keller's Bouchon Bakery.


This is the perfect sandwich cookie. Who can resist a grown-up version of the Oreo, with no grittiness, artificial sugars and flavors, and preservatives? The filling is so simple and rich, I found myself licking the bowls and the piping bags (shhh!). It's altogether a versatile recipe; you can add any flavorings you want to the cream. I made a second version of the TKO, with a matcha cream filling. I think I shall name it the CRO, the Curiously Ravenous Oreo. Haha, how clever of me...

Matcha cream-filled Oreos

I prefer to use a smaller cookie cutter with these cookies, as the resulting cookie becomes the perfect bitesize morsel. Not only delicious, they are beautiful, and a great gift-giving cookie for the holidays!



TKO's
from The Essence of Chocolate
makes about 3 dozen sandwich cookies

Cookie:
1 1/2 cups plus 3 Tbsp all purpose flour
3/4 cup sugar
3/4 cup plus 1 Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 tsp salt
15 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into 3/4" cubes, at room temperature

Filling:
1/2 cup heavy cream
8 oz. white chocolate, chopped

1. For the Filling: In a small pan, bring the cream to a boil. Remove from heat and add the chocolate. Let stand for 1 minute, then whisk to melt the chocolate until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl, and let stand for 6 hours to thicken up.

2. For the Cookies: In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda, and salt, and mix on low speed. With the mixer running, add the butter, a piece at a time. The mixture will be dry and sandy at first, but over 2 minutes, will form pebble-sie pieces that start to cling together. Stop the mixer and transfer the dough to your board.

3. Preheat oven to 350F. Seperate dough into 2 pieces. Roll each piece of dough between 2 pieces of plastic wrap or parchment paper to 1/8" inch thick. Using a fluted cutter, cut into rounds. Scraps can be pieced together and rolled out again. Place 1/2" apart on baking sheets lined with Silpat liners or parchment paper.

4. Bake for 12-15 minutes, rotating halfway through baking. Remove and cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then transfer cookies to a cooling rack. Cool completely.


5. To Assemble: Lightly whip the white chocolate cream to aerate and fluff up. Transfer filling to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/4" plain tip. Pipe about 1 1/2 tsp in the center of half the cookies. Top with another cookie to sandwich. Gently press down until the cream comes to the edges.

6. Cookies can be stored in a container for up to 3 days. Loosely cover.

b bistro, sunday brunch

Traditional Eggs Benedict

It was like going to your grandmother's house for Sunday brunch. Sitting by the window of a renovated townhouse, sipping on a big mug of coffee, wrapped in a big chunky sweater, something like your grandfather would putz around in. It was all so cozy. They say that couples who brunch together stay together. Mr.S took me to b bistro in Bolton Hill. I had wanted to go to IHOP. In retrospect, his was a much better brunch choice.

The brunch menu is small, which I appreciate since I am the world's most indecisive person. Give me a large menu, and I'll be sitting there for hours wringing my hands. Split up into omelets, and benedicts with 3 variations each, pancakes, a breakfast burrito, and some other breakfasty things, the menu is very straightforward. I had traditional eggs Benedict with Canadian bacon. The yolks were perfectly cooked, the Hollandaise nicely balanced between light and rich. The potatoes however, were slightly wet and mush-like. Mr.S's breakfast burrito was good, with the best part of the dish being the fresh salsa, with like, a ton of garlic. For the filler, there was a generous portion of scrambled egg, sausage, black beans and onion.

Breakfast Burrito

What I love best of "b" is the environment, the warm and extremely social atmosphere. Because of the almost cramped dining room, you are sat in very close proximity to your neighbors. There's the low hum of 10 different conversations going on around you, warmth from the open kitchen in the rear, and the peaceful serenity of the historical residential neighborhood outside. Oh yes, there's a bottle of Tabasco on each table, a small detail I adore. And so, my love affair with b continues...

murgh tikka masala

Read this before attempting this recipe: Be prepared to have your kitchen, clothes and hair smell like a spice market!

This chicken tikka masala sure doesn't taste like the bright orange stuff you'd slosh on your plate at the $8.95 Indian lunch buffet. It is actually quite delicate and nuanced in flavors, yet still robust and spicy. The creaminess of the sauce comes primarily from the plain nonfat yogurt, and not from the heavy cream, and thus contrary to popular belief, yields a not so unhealthy dish.

Chicken Tikka Masala was actually popularized in England by the Brits' affinity for creamy, heavier type foods and curries. It thus falls more into the category of fusion food, much like what General Tso's chicken is to authentic Chinese cuisine. General who? Anyway.

This recipe is an involved process, as the chicken must be marinated about a day in advance. Mr.S prepped all the steps in the following recipes. As a result his kitchen transformed into Mr.S's House of Curry, and me, his obedient sous-chef. When it comes to Indian food, he is quickly becoming the master of the subcontinent, wielding the powers of spices and chutneys. Which makes me a happy girl, since I love good Indian food, and get to be on the receiving end of all his labors.

He cooked up a large batch last night for dinner, and we had leftovers tonight. With a spoon and rounds of warm naan to scoop up the fragrant curry, we swore never to order chicken tikka masala from a restaurant again.

Murgh Tikka Masala (Grilled Chicken in Spicy Sauce)
adapted from 1000 Indian Recipes
makes 4-6 servings

1 recipe Grilled/Broiled Garlic Chicken Tikka
1/2 cup Fried Onion Paste
2 large tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped
1 Tbsp coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp dried fenugreek leaves
1 tsp ground paprika
1 tsp garam masala
1 tsp salt
1 cup water
1/3 cup heavy cream

1. Roughly chop the grilled chicken into smaller 1" pieces. Set aside.

2. In a food processor, roughly puree tomatoes with cilantro.

3. In a deep pan, melt 1 Tbsp ghee over high heat. Add the fried onion paste and tomato puree. Cook over medium heat for 7 minutes to evaporate the juices. Add the remaining dried spices and salt, and cook for 1 minute. Add the water and grilled chicken pieces, and simmer for 5 minutes. Finally, add the cream, and simmer for another 5 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with fresh chopped cilantro.


Grilled/Broiled Garlic Chicken Tikka:
1 lb. boneless chicken pieces
2 tsp garlic paste
2 tsp olive oil
1.5 tsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp garam masala
1/4 tsp fresh ground black pepper
1.5 tsp salt
1/4 tsp ground green cardamom

1. Mix together garlic, olive oil, and the spices. Coat the chicken and marinate in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.

2. Broil or grill chicken 5-6 minutes on each side, until deep golden. Let cool.


Fried Onion Paste:
1 cup ghee or vegetable oil
6-8 quarter size slices peeled fresh ginger
4 cloves garlic
1 large onion, thinly sliced into rings
1/2 cup plain nonfat yogurt

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Fry the ginger and garlic until golden brown. Add the onion, and fry until well-browned, about 5 minutes more. Remove to paper towels and drain well. Reserve the oil for another purpose.

2. In a food processor, blend the fried onions with the yogurt to the consistency of a smooth paste.

oatmeal scotchies

My mom used to make me oatmeal cookies with butterscotch chips from the recipe on the back of the Nestle Tollhouse Butterscotch chips bag. Of course, she'd throw in everything from the kitchen pantry, from raisins to chopped walnuts and peanuts. This no doubt, wasn't quite so appealing to a younger, not so health conscious, sugar-loving me, who'd pick out all the raisins and whatnot and only eat the sweet chips and cookie scraps.

In keeping with tradition, my recipe is based off the Nestle recipe as well. I love thinner cookies, with crisp edges and a chewy center, so to the batter, I added 2 Tablespoons of light corn syrup and 2 Tablespoons of milk, and a small handful of toasted almonds for crunch. Additionally, I only added about 2 cups of oats, instead of the called for 3 cups. The result is a light, thin cookie, that very much resembles a lace cookie. Still chewy and savory full of oats, this cookie begs for a tall glass of milk.

great lakes brewing company

I found myself in cold, snowy, icy, and oh, did I mention, COLD Cleveland over the weekend. I don't believe I've ever worn so many layers and was still frozen to the bone. This must be why there are so many pubs in Cleveland, one after the next, all within staggering distance of one another. One of the best, and more popular, pub turned brewery turned restaurant, is the Great Lakes Brewing Company, the first microbrewery in Cleveland. We stopped in for lunch, all 13 of us, and a round of their famous Christmas Ale, a seasonal brew made with honey, with hints of ginger, cinnamon and cloves. Apparently it reached such a level of popularity last year, it was virtually impossible to find.

We sat at a long Colonial style table by a roaring fire, which made the whole meal feel incredibly festive. Our obliging waitress happily brought us round after round of home brewed beers, all deliciously unique. The Christmas Ale lived up to its name, reminding me of all the holiday scents, sweet and spicy. For lunch, I had the Pretzel Chicken, an Amish-raised chicken breast, roasted in a crust of crush pretzels and herbs, with wilted spinach, mashed potatoes, and a creamy mustard ale sauce. My dad ordered the Walleye, a fish you wouldn't normally see on a menu, served pan roasted with lemon caper butter. Both were good, maybe a tad on the bland side, but definitely accented by the pairing of a good brew.

Pretzel chicken


Wallyeye dinner

I love microbrews; there's something so satisfying about a hand-crafted beer. After a few pints, we bravely faced the chilly air, only to find it wasn't quite so bad anymore. Who can complain on a full stomach, and an anticipated visit to the Rock 'n Roll Hall of Fame? If you are ever in the neighborhood of this great city, do visit this historic and storied tavern-restaurant. After such a meal, I'm a believer that Cleveland rocks.



Great Lake Brewing Company
2516 Market Ave.
Cleveland, OH 44113

dorie greenspan's corn muffins

Warm, out of the oven, and drizzled with honey. I have a certain weakness for corny baked things, especially when stone ground cornmeal is used...the grittiness that turns sweet and full of texture when cooked. Imagine such a muffin that crumbles when split, and soaks up a pat of sweet butter when gently plied. Excuse me while I step away from my computer to wipe the drool off my face.

This is Dorie Greenspan's recipe, which calls for all the usual suspects, buttermilk, melted butter, a 50/50 mix of cornmeal and all-purpose flour. I particulary appreciate her addition of freshly grated nutmeg, and an extra egg yolk for a bit of richness. I would suggest baking these babies in a well seasoned muffin pan, cast-iron, if you can get your hands on one. This will produce a crispy, buttery, golden crust that ascends the height of each muffin. Otherwise, they will still turn out fine, just with a softer crust.

I eat these with practically everything, with fried eggs for breakfast yesterday, and with a big bowl of chipotle turkey chili tonight. Such great cold weather food...

thanksgiving recap II

Three hectic days later, a small get-together was hastily thrown together in a downtown Baltimore high-rise for a small group of twenty and thirty somethings.... The key players were a roast turkey breast, and many a hearty side dish.

On the feasting table:
roast turkey breast, thyme and sage
cranberry apple sauce
mango chutney
creamy potato and parsnip puree with horseradish cream
cornbread stuffing with sausage and chestnuts
roast green beans with shallots and walnuts
roasted beet and field greens salad, Humboldt Fog goat cheese, beet vinaigrette

Let's not forget dessert...
pumpkin pie, spiced cookie crust
old-fashioned chocolate layer cake (not pictured)

For only five of us, we made a commendable effort in making a dent in the meal...not to say there weren't exorbitant amounts of leftovers! For a week, we had turkey in every conceivable permutation possible. Needless to say, turkey will not be on the menu at Christmas! Duck, perhaps.... and maybe a side of duck fat-fried potatoes...

thanksgiving recap I

Yes, yes, I'm sure everyone is all turkey-ed out... I know I sure am. Two big dinners in the course of four days, one cooked by my dad and me, the other all by myself, with the contribution of a most lovely chocolate cake baked by my pal J. It's so interesting that most of us Thanksgiving cooks very rarely stray from the traditional dishes, staying within the confines of a roast turkey or ham, some sort of potato, green bean, stuffing, and pumpkin dishes. I truly admire any dissenters, those who put their own spin, or even ethnic twist, on such a time-honored feast.

My dad and I collaborated on a mixed American and Chinese style Thanksgiving. It was well received by all...wasn't bizarre in the least. It was certainly nice to give thanks to all the ways in which we could these prepare dishes, in ways true to our heritage and in those of our adopted heritage as well.

Di San Xian - "Three Flavors" a northeastern Chinese stirfry of bell pepper, sweet potato, and eggplant


Song Reng Yu Mi- Stirfry of sweet corn with toasted pinenuts

Roast green beans with red onion, cranberries, walnuts