Wednesday, September 5, 2007

we came together

Mehndi on the bride's hands

What does it mean to open ourselves up to someone else, someone who is different from us? Perhaps it's understanding and accepting a new culture, a new lifestyle, a different set of habits. Perhaps it's seeing every which way we're the same, and yet appreciating all the ways in which we are different. A culture clash can be a wonderful thing.

Eating the food from a different culture is to begin to truly understand the heart and soul of that people, their history and lives. If you think about it, cooking is one of the purest and most genuine ways in which someone can express themselves and to translate the intimacies of their culture and traditions. When we pick up a pair of chopsticks, reach across the table for a piece of sushi, we're breaking a culture barrier. For me, this isn't enough. I enjoy recreating these dishes in my own kitchen, and really going through the same processes and techniques that a Japanese granny or an Indian auntie would in theirs. It shows that we're capable of crossing boundaries, be it racial, ethnic, or even social and economic. Food transcends borders and class; it brings people together- to the table, to the middle, to the other side.

This past weekend, my best friends and I reunited for our friends' engagement party- a three day long celebration with family, friends and out of this world Indian food! Up until this weekend, I didn't realize just how little I knew about Indian food culture, the regions and the ingredients. Beyond curries, cumin, turmeric powder, garam masala, biryanis....there is a whole world of fresh and intense flavors that tease the palate. Much of the food was prepared by the family. They urged us to try everything and explained what each dish was, all the while with pride and love in their eyes as they introduced a piece of their world to us. Food was the medium by which they welcomed us into their homes. It also gave us a glimpse of the intensely warm energy of this family, their relationships with each other, and the unspeakable pride and joy that brought us all together to honor the young couple.

These are just a few of the dishes we gorged on...

Fritters stuffed with potato, chickpeas, green chutney, raita, and sev (a fried snack that looks like vermicelli)

oh hell yea! Samosas!

Tandoori chicken with coriander chutney

I think this is called bhel puri- a snack of fried pastry, boiled potato, chickpeas, chutneys, raw diced onion, and sev

Idli- a steamed rice cake made of rice and lentil flours

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

golden kiwi and strawberry tarte


Somehow when fresh fruit is added to a dessert, it helps to negate a portion of the calories...it just doesn't seem as bad for you anymore, does it? That's exactly how I feel of fruit tartes. The eggy custard of the creme patissiere and the rich buttery crust can't possibly be that fattening since the layer of fruit on top is sure to clean out your arteries!

I made this favorite dessert of my mom's for her recent birthday dinner. I forgot how nice it is to work in a big spacious kitchen, especially when doing pastry work. My parents have 2 kitchens, one for Chinese heavy-duty stir-frying where the exhaust hood can literally suck the shirt off your back, and one for light cooking and entertaining. Even then, it still boas
ts a 5-burner range top, 2 ovens, and ample marble countertops. And they hardly use all this! Nevertheless, I took full advantage and got down and dirty with my dough.

Pastry work is extremely soothing for me. It's methodical- certain steps must be followed and each step involves using your hands, either gently or with force, but always with some degree of precision. The crust in this recipe is the most time consuming, but if you are up for the challenge, you will be well rewarded with a delicious crumbly piece of delightfulness.



Fresh Fruit Tarte- Golden Kiwi, Strawberry, Creme Patissiere

adapted from Baking Illustrated

Equipment
oblong fluted tart pan, with removable bottom
pastry board
rolling pin
fine mesh sieve
pastry brush

Tarte Pastry
1 egg yolk
1-2 tbsp heavy cream
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups all purpose flour
2/3 cup confectioner's sugar
pinch salt
8 tbsp (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Pastry Cream
2 cups half and half
1/2 cup sugar

pinch salt
5 egg yolks
3 tbsp cornstarch
4 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 tsp vanilla extract

Fruit Topping
strawberries, hulled and sliced
golden kiwi**, peeled and sliced
2 tbsp apricot jelly
1 tbsp brandy

1. For the Tart Pastry: Whisk together yolk, cream, and vanilla in small bowl; set aside. Pulse to combine flour, sugar, and salt in bowl of food processor. Scatter butter pieces over flour mixture; pulse to cut butter into flour until mixture resembles coarse meal. With machine running, add egg mixture and process until dough just comes together, about 25 seconds. Turn dough onto sheet of plastic wrap and press into a small brick. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate at about 1 hour.

2. Remove dough from refrigerator. Unwrap and roll out between lightly floured large sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap to 6x18 inch rectangle. Transfer dough to tart pan by rolling dough loosely around rolling pin and unrolling over tart pan. Working around the edge of the pan, press dough into fluted sides of pan. (If some edges are too thin, reinforce sides by folding excess dough back on itself.) Run rolling pin over top of tart pan to remove excess dough. Freeze for 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375F. Set dough-lined tart pan on baking sheet, press foil inside frozen tart shell and over edges and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes, rotating halfway through baking time. Remove from oven and carefully r
emove foil and weights by gathering edges of foil and pulling up and out. Continue to bake until deep golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes longer. Set baking sheet with tart shell on wire rack to cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

4. For the Pastry Cream: Heat half-and-half, 6 tablespoons sugar, and salt in medium saucepan over medium heat until simmering, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar.

5. Meanwhile, whisk egg yolks in medium bowl until thoroughly combined. Whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and whisk until sugar has begun to dissolve and mixture is creamy, about 15 seconds. Whisk in cornstarch until combined and mixture is pale yellow and thick, about 30 seconds.

6. When half-and-half mixture reaches full simmer, gradually whisk simmering half-and-half into yolk mixture to temper. Return mixture to saucepan, and simmer over medium heat, whisking constantly, until 3 or 4 bubbles burst on surface and mixture is thickened and glossy, about 30 seconds. Off heat, whisk in butter and vanilla. Press the custard through a fine mesh sieve to remove any lumps. Transfer mixture to medium bowl, press plastic wrap directly on surface, and refrigerate until cold and set, at leas
t 3 hours or up to 48 hours.

7. Assembly: When tart shell is completely cool, spread cold pastry cream over bottom, using offset spatula or large spoon. Arrange fruit on top of pastry cream, following a design of your choice.

8. Microwave jelly for ~20 seconds. Stir in the brandy. With a pastry brush, gently dab and brush on fruit to glaze. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes to let set up. Remove outer metal of tart pan, slide thin metal spatula between bottom of crust and tart pan bottom to release, then slip tart onto erving platter; serve.


**The kiwi originates from Southern China. Seeds of the fruit were first introduced to New Zealand circa 1908, where it later flourished. The golden kiwi variety is man cultivated. The taste is sweeter and far less tart than its green brethren. You can find them here in the U.S. during the summer months. They are lighter brown in color, with appreciably less fuzz, and have a characteristic funny little nub at one end.

mom's birthday dinner

We celebrated my mom's birthday over the weekend. She asked for a nice dinner at home, no muss and fuss of dining out. That's fine by me, since my dad's home cooking is what I consider my ultimate comfort food. Many of his dishes are passed down from his father, my grandpa, a real chef and legend in our hometown in northeast China. Many of the ingredients my dad used were fresh from his garden- peppers, japanese eggplant, scallions, cucumbers and tomatoes. I let him take care of the main courses while I prepared a fresh fruit tarte for dessert. We dined, wined, and celebrated my mom's birthday, her youth and vitality, in the comfort of our kitchen.

Kao Da Xia - Wok Fired Jumbo Shrimp

Jiao Xhi Yu - Sweet and Tangy Crispy Whole Fish

You Chao Qiezi La Jiao - Spicy Eggplant and Pepper Stir Fry

Garlic Stir-fried Broccoli and Snow Peas

Fresh Fruit Tarte - Strawberries, Golden Kiwi, Creme Patissiere

Also on the menu, but not pictured-
Butter lettuce salad with avocado, cucumbers, and dates
Red bean (Adzuki) congee

umeshu


S-A-T-U-R-D-A-Y-night! Mr.S and I spent Saturday evening at a Baltimore foodie party, hosted by fellow blogger, Rachel. Everyone brought interesting liquors and beverages... limoncello, Pimms, Sangrita, Unicum... We brought this bottle of Japanese plum wine and sweet wasabi pickles to complement (see previous post). Called umeshu, this wine is made by soaking green plums, ume, in clear distilled liquor, shochu, for up to 12 years. It is sweet and warm-tasting, and reminded me of ice wine.

One of the most popular brands is called Choya. The website gives recipes for using umeshu in seasonal drinks, my favorite being the Choya Royal, a mixture of umeshu and dry champagne. Another interesting one is mixing 2 parts umeshu with 3 parts beer. Mmmmm.... I'm fairly convinced that the design of the bottle is what adds to the appeal of this wine- it reminded me of a sports water bottle or a Voss bottle with its straight shape and big cap lid. Hours of fun!

Monday, August 27, 2007

sweet wasabi pickles

Got a minute? Well, then you got pickles! These are so quick and simple to make, and can easily be made in small or large batches. I love to use wasabi in salad dressings and marinades- it adds a whole other layer of depth and flavor to a cold dish. Try just a little if you are sensitive to the sinus-clearing effects of this wondrous root!

I must thank my parents for providing me with these fresh from the vine cucumbers from their garden. They were still covered with a layer of pricklies. If you don't have access to super fresh cukes, I recommend using Kirby cucumbers, a smaller variety that are ~6 inches long, since they are firmer and crunchier.

Sweet Wasabi Pickles

2 medium cucumbers (firm to the touch), sliced extra thin
2 tbsp rice wine vinegar
2 tbsp mirin**
2-3 tsp sugar (depending on how sweet you like them)
1.5-2 tbsp wasabi paste
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

Spread the cucumber slices in a thin layer in a shallow pan or casserole dish. (Enough so that they do not sit mounded.) Whisk together vinegar, mirin, sugar, and wasabi. Pour over the cucumbers. Sprinkle the pepper flakes on top.

You can eat them right away, or let marinade in the fridge for a few hours.

** Mirin is Japanese sweet rice cooking wine. It has a low alcohol content which lends it a unique flavor. You can find this at Asian markets, next to the soy sauces. For the best tasting mirins, you want to look at the ingredients on the back of the bottle. Make sure that the alcohol content is high, or is one of the first 2-3 major ingredients listed.

Sunday, August 26, 2007

a wedding shower


First you get engaged, then comes the wedding shower, bachelorette party, the big day, the honeymoon. The union of two people is much cause for celebration. The story of many a young couple begins as such, planning, laughing and crying, all the while carefully watched over (and many times scrutinized) by mothers, fathers, friends... It's all so stressful and yet so completely worth the tears, heartache, and heartburn! At the end of it all, you are left with the person whom you'll begin a family with, a life with. And to think it all started with a simple crush....

Many of my girlfriends have gotten engaged recently and the kickoff to parties, luncheons, weddings, and receptions has begun. In all honesty, they leave me a little sad. It's gotten me thinking about my own wedding, however soon or far off it may be, and just how few family members will be there with me. All of them are overseas, and since I'm an only child, the bride's side of the room seems a little lonely to me. Well, nevertheless, I will have many friends there to eat and drink with me, all of whom I consider family, the best and biggest family.

I attended Mr.S's sister's wedding shower this weekend. The theme was a kitchen shower, in which guests were asked to bring the bride their favorite recipes, and in which most the gifts were kitchen-friendly. It was all so endearing, sitting under the tent in the yard, nibbling on finger sandwiches, salads, and petits fours.


I baked a cake for the occasion, a simple white layer cake, with vanilla buttercream and the last of the season's blueberries. It was my first time sugaring the fruit, and it turned out wonderfully! I was happy with the cake too, soft and light, simple and classic. Cheers to the happily soon-to-be-married couple!


White Layer Cake with Vanilla Buttercream and Fresh
Blueberries
adapted from Baking Illustrated

Cake:
2 1/4 cups cake flour, plus more for dusting the pans
1
cup whole milk, at room temperature
6
large egg whites (3/4 cup), at room temperature
2
tsp almond extract
1
tsp
1 3/4
cups sugar

4 tsp baking powder
1
tsp salt

12 tbsp (1 1/2 sticks), softened but still cool

Buttercream:
4
large egg whites
1 cup sugar
pinch
salt
1 lb
unsalted butter (4 sticks), cut into pieces, softened, but still cool
1 tsp
vanilla extract

Blueberries:
½ cup fresh blueberries

1 tsp egg white
½ cup sugar

1. For the Cake: Set oven rack in middle position. Heat oven to 350F. Spray two 9-inch round cake pans with nonstick cooking spray; line the bottoms with parchment or waxed paper rounds. Spray the paper rounds, dust the pans with flour, and invert pans and rap sharply to remove excess flour.

2. Pour milk, egg whites, and extracts into 2-cup glass measure, and mix with fork until blended.

3. Mix cake flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in bowl of electric mixer at slow speed. Add butter; continue beating at slow speed until mixture resembles moist crumbs, with no powdery streaks remaining.

4. Add all but 1/2 cup of milk mixture to crumbs and beat at medium speed for 1 1/2 minutes. Add remaining 1/2 cup of milk mixture and beat 30 seconds more. Stop mixer and scrape sides of bowl. Return mixer to medium speed and beat 20 seconds longer.

5. Divide batter evenly between two prepared cake pans; using rubber spatula, spread batter to pan walls and smooth tops. Bake until thin skewer or toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 23 to 25 minutes.

6. Let cakes rest in pans for 3 minutes. Loosen from sides of pans with a knife, if necessary, and invert onto wire racks. Reinvert onto additional wire racks. Let cool completely, about 1 1/2 hours.

7. For the Buttercream: Combine whites, sugar, and salt in bowl of standing mixer; set bowl over saucepan containing 1 1/2-inches of barely simmering water. Whisk constantly until mixture is opaque and warm to the touch and registers about 120 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 2 minutes.

8. Transfer bowl to mixer and beat whites on high speed with whisk attachment until barely warm (about 80 degrees) and whites are glossy and sticky, about 7 minutes. Reduce speed to medium-high and beat in butter
1 piece at a time. Beat in vanilla extract. Stop mixer and scrape bottom and sides of bowl. Continue to beat at medium-high speed until well-combined, about 1 minute.

9. Sugared blueberries: Coat the blueberries in egg white and roll in a shallow pan with the sugar until all the berries are covered.

10. Assemble the cake: Spread cream and berries on the first layer of cake.

Add the second layer of cake. Frost the top and sides.

Arrange the berries on top in a circle first then mound the sugared berries in the middle.

Sunday, August 19, 2007

b bistro

I remember dining at b when it first opened, many years back. The food and service has fluctuated through the years, as to be expected, but what remains contant to me is the ambiance of a real neighborhood eatery. It blends in so well with the surrounding historic homes that you'd most likely drive by without notice, were it not for the diners softly buzzing over their plates and glasses of wine, outside clustered on the sidewalk. It's a wonderful place to relax on a summer night, with no where to be but with friends.

There is a list of specials every night, a choice of appetizer, salad, pasta dish, fish, and "butcher's block." The open kitchen in the back is the only reminder that you are not dining at a good friend's home for a dinner party.

We started with a bottle of Vouvray. Two of us ordered pizzas, one with calamari, the other mixed mushrooms. They weren't mind-blowingly good...then again, you can't really mess up a pizza. The crust could have been thinner and less cheese on top would have highlighted the toppings better. Rather, it was covered in a gooey layer of cheesey swampland. Taste was ok, according to my friends.


I split the mussels with another friend, since they were a large portion. Tender and juicy, but we both agreed the broth could have been more savory or fragrant. It was very tomato-ey, and could have used more garlic. But.... we still ate it all up! We also ordered some salads and appetizers- the tomato and mozzarella salad and roasted eggplant and pepper, with mozzarella and pesto. The flavors were all great and colors beautiful.


Our lovely evening was marred when a neighborhood dog was run over by a car in the street...but luckily it wasn't badly injured.

So go, stay a while, enjoy a bottle of wine and one of the most charming neighborhoods in Baltimore.

b bistro
1501 Bolton Street
Baltimore, MD 21217

Thursday, August 16, 2007

avocado pound cake

If you think about it, the avocado is a fruit. Its intense creaminess lends it to be the perfect nonpartisan player in the great divide between savory and sweet. Sure it is best known for its leading role in guacamole as well as in California rolls and salads, but in many South American and South Asian cultures, avocado is used in dessert dishes. The batidos of Brazil incorporate creamy fruits like avocado with milk to make silky shakes. A popular treat in Indonesia combines avocado, condensed milk and chocolate syrup to yield a decadent smoothie. In last month's Saveur, contributor Andrea Nguyen wrote about the her love of fresh avocado drizzled with condensed milk, fresh from he farmer's market. In the U.S., Californians, by far, treasure the avocado, one of their native fruits. There is even an annual avocado festival held in Carpinteria where delightful dishes like avocado ice cream and avocado pie abound. There is also avocado pound cake, of which I have yet to find a recipe for, so I decided to create my own.

I forgot that avocado can act like butter due to its high fat content, so I basically added twice the amount fat that a pound cake needs. Not that that's a bad thing. The cake did turn out super moist and almost gooey. So if you are looking for more of a cake-like poundcake, keep the same amount of avocado, just reduce the amount of butter and add a bit more flour. What you will bring forth from your oven is a loaf of sweet, nutty complex flavors. The combination of the creamy pastel green and the buttery carbo-goodness will make your heart lift oh-so-high.

Avocado Pound Cake
makes a 9-inch loaf

DRY INGREDIENTS:
3/4 cup all purpose flour
3/4 cup cake flour
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking powder

WET INGREDIENTS:
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp vanilla
2 tsp lemon zest
1/2 cup sour cream
2 ripe avocado, cubed

1. Preheat oven to 325F. Grease the bottom and sides of a 9x5x3 loaf pan.

2. In a large bowl, sift together the dry ingredients. Set aside.

3. In another bowl, cream the butter and sugar until pale and light in texture. Add vanilla, and one egg at a time, while still mixing. Beat in the avocado until batter is smooth. Mix in sour cream and lemon zest. Wih a spatula, gently fold in the dry ingredients, without overworking the batter. The batter will be slightly dry. Pour it into the prepared pan.

4. Bake about 1 hour or until a knife inserted in the middle comes out clean, and top of cake is golden.

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

pad thai

This is a very straightforward and authentic recipe for pad thai, one of my most loved dishes. It plays on different flavors simultaneously- sour, sweet, salty, and umami. Mr.S and I frequently get carry-out thai on our busy nights; I have a feeling we'll be cutting back now that I can easily make this at home. I admit I am a bit of a pad thai snob; this recipe definitely seals the deal.

The prep is more time consuming than the actual cooking process.

Ingredients from top left:

thin rice noodles
shrimp
roasted peanuts
scallion
marinated dried tofu

bean sprouts
eggs
salted radish
seasoning sauce- tamarind pulp**, fish sauce, palm sugar, chili powder


Pad Thai
serves 2

Pad Thai Sauce:
1/4 cup fish sauce
1/4 cup tamarind pulp
1/4 cup palm sugar
1 tsp chili powder

10-12 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/4 cup roasted peanuts, rough chopped

1/4 cup salted radish
1/3 cup dried tofu, cut into matchstick size
2 stalks scallion, chopped
1 heaping cup bean sprouts
2 eggs
thin rice noodles, half of a 14-oz package
vegetable oil
orange slice, garnish

1. Noodles: In a large bowl, cover noodles with hot water, stir, and let soak until noodles are pliable but not too soft. Time will vary depending on how hot your water is. (generally about 15-20 minutes) Drain the
noodles and set aside.

2. Sauce: Stir together fish sauce, tamarind, sugar and chili powder. Microwave for 20 seconds to gently
dissolve the sugar. You can adjust the amount of each ingredient to your liking- for more sour, sweet, or salty.

3. In your wok: on high heat, add 3-4 Tbsp vegetable oil until smoking hot. Stir-fry the tofu until edges start to turn golden brown. Add the noodles and half of the reserved sauce. At this point, stir vigorously until all the noodles are covered in the sauce. Fry until noodles are soft. (Taste to make sure) Push the noodles to one side of the wok, and add 1 Tbsp oil to the empty half of the wok. Crack both eggs here and let set for about 15 seconds, and start to scramble. Push toward the noodles. Add the shrimp, scallions, radish, half of the peanuts, half of the sprouts, and remainder of the sauce to the empty side of the wok. Stir everything
together, and fry for another 2 minutes until shrimp are cooked through.

4. Plate: Heap the noodles onto your plate. On the side of the noodles, and not on top, garnish with the rest of the peanuts and raw sprouts, and a slice of orange.


**tamarind pulp:
For the best flavor, make this from scratch. You can buy a box of tamarind, in which the tamarind are still in their pods. Crack open the hard shells, and remove the hard fibrous "spines" from the sticky meat inside. In a shallow bowl, place the shelled tamarind and cover with hot water. In an hour of two, with clean hands, mush the tamarind to make a paste, while removing and discarding the seeds. What remains will be a pile of brown mush, with the consistency of applesauce. Strain this through a fine mesh sieve to remove any fibrous pieces, and you will be left with wonderfully fresh tangy tamarind paste/pulp. This can be frozen for later use.