blancophilia

Probably the largest cake I've ever made, this one was created to celebrate a new chapter in Mr.S's life, his quickly approaching move to San Francisco, and a sad departure from a lifetime in Baltimore. (Pardon me, it's really not as depressing as I make it out to be.) There was much excitement as friends and family all gathered on a rainy Sunday at Red Star to wish him bon voyage and happy adventures in Cali. For the fete, a white cake with a bed of white roses was the centerpiece, to represent new beginnings and a clean start.


Rich, white cake with raspberry filling and a white chocolate-sake buttercream.



I had great fun making the cake, in retrospect, but at the time, with an apartment that soared to almost 90 degrees, chocolate work was no easy feat. And to add to that, buttercream has difficulty coming together at that temperature. The final creation was not exactly what I had in mind, but was still beautiful. Originally, instead of the white chocolate curls on the sides, I had envisioned sheets of white chocolate, alternating in height, surrounding the perimeter. It was an image that I'd seen a while back in an issue of Donna Hay, and was recreated by Nordljus here.


I'm not going to post the recipe, simply because it's a cake that serves 35-40 people, and the measurements are for the most part, somewhat impractical. However, if you should ever find yourself in a position to make a 20-lb+ cake, and would like the recipe, please email me, and I'd be more than thrilled to part with it, and also to impart some words of wisdom in taking on an endeavor of such tremendous caliber.

The effort was well worth it as Mr.S was smiling the whole time, surrounded by his loved ones. He will be missed!

FYI: Red Star does wonderful private parties. The upstairs room is the perfect setting for any personal event you may like to host.

curry tuna salad with grapes

Tuna salad is just good stuff, anyway you make it. Except for the mushy kind at the grocery store salad bar, sitting there with that ominous looking dried, crusty layer on top. My mom used to make tuna salad for me all the time since it was cheap, fast, and really good. Weekends only though, because she put a lethal dose of chopped onion in hers, which would have made me the least popular kid in school, if I'd brought that in my lunchbox.

This is tuna salad for grown-ups since it's flavored with many spices- curry, cumin, and turmeric. Originally I had wanted to add golden raisins, but opted instead for plump and juicy red grapes. The pineapple chutney gives the salad a final oomph of flavor. I used store-bought chutney, but since creating this recipe, I've made it again with my own homemade chutney. The recipe is below.


Curry Tuna Salad with Grapes
yields about 2 cups

As a shortcut, I used store-bought pineapple chutney in this recipe to add another layer of sweet and tartness. Mango and pear chutneys would also work well as a substitute.

2 6-oz. cans tuna (packed in water), drained
1/3-1/2 cup mayonnaise (depending on how creamy you prefer it)
half red onion, diced
1 stalk celery, diced
1 Tbsp pineapple chutney
2 tsp curry powder
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp sugar
20 red seedless grapes, sliced in half
salt, to taste

1. In a bowl, flake the tuna fish with a fork. Add the remaining ingredients, except for the grapes, and mix well. Be sure not to overmix. Stir in the grapes at the very end, and season with salt and pepper to taste.


Basic Pineapple Chutney
yields 3/4 cup

1/2 cup pineapple chunks, diced up
1 Tbsp leftover pineapple juice
2 Tbsp diced onion
1/2 tsp fresh minced ginger
pinch red chili flakes
1/4 tsp garlic powder
1/4 cup white vinegar
1/8 cup + 2 Tbsp brown sugar

In a small saucepan, add all ingredients and mix well. Simmer over medium-low heat for 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the pineapple and onion have cooked down. The chutney should be a deep golden brown, with a sticky consistency. Let cool.

green tea shortbread with cocoa nibs

I made a batch of these over the weekend for our company potluck. Many of my coworkers asked if it was food coloring! Gasp! How uncouth. Surprisingly, a little bit of green tea powder goes a long way, both in terms of flavor and color.

As most of you know, I am a big fan of cocoa nibs; if I could, I would probably add a dash of it to everything I ate. It imparts a crunchy textural quality as well as a deep, earthy, chocolaty finish to any food it flavors.

These little treats are delicate and subtly sweet. The sugary crust around the edge gives a bit more of a crunch, along with the nibs too. Next time, I will use a couple more tablespoons of butter and may even try to incorporate the nibs into the dough itself before rolling out.


Green Tea Shortbread with Cocoa Nibs
makes 36-40 1-inch cookies

2.5 oz (~1 cup) confectioner's sugar
1 1/2 Tbsp matcha powder
6 oz. unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 large egg yolks

cocoa nibs, for topping
sugar, for rolling

1. Cream butter with confectioner's sugar and matcha powder until smooth and evenly mixed, about 2 minutes. Slowly mix in the flour until well incorporated. Add the yolks one by one, mixing after each addition. The dough will start to come together when large clumps form. Turn out the dough onto your board and form into a disc. Cover in plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 45 min.

2. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350F. Line baking sheets with parchment paper.

3. Roll out the dough into 1/4" thick disc. Cut the dough with cookie cutters. Gently lift out each cookie, roll the edges in sugar and place on the prepared pans. Add a pinch of cocoa nibs to each cookie and press down into the dough.

4. Bake for 10-12 minutes or until slightly golden around the edges, but not brown. (You want a tender, buttery cookie.)

the butter wars

Some of us prefer good wine, others olive oils and aged vinegars. I, on the other hand, will splurge on good dairy products at the drop of a hat. My love of dairy probably stems from the fact that I had none growing up. A great many Chinese are lactose-intolerant, and the rest do not have a taste for milk or cheese.

The first time I tasted butter was an epiphanic moment. I was seven years old, and ready for a snack. I laid out a mini smörgåsbord of 2 sticks of butter, a loaf of Wonder bread, and a carton of Tropicana orange juice, a veritable cornucopia of everything I considered to be American food. With a trusty butter knife in hand, I set out to work. What ensued was a wild mess of a culinary orgy. I won't go into details, save for the fact that my dad came home to find me sprawled out on the floor with crumbs and a butter wrapper stuck to my face. So begins the love affair.

Since I do so much baking and cooking, I go through at least a couple of pounds a week, in addition to the amount I use on my toast and rolls. I use commercial grade butter every now and then (the generic brand from Giant is the best), but in comparison, there is a handful of small-dairy crafted butters from local sources that are readily available at specialty markets across Baltimore. I really believe in supporting small, sustainable farms and dairies, especially local ones, and truly these butters, because of their higher butterfat content, taste worlds better than any 1-pound block you'd find at the store.

The richness of the butter from these small dairies is largely due to the cows' diets of fresh grasses, and exposure to clean air and water. Because of this, butters from different farms will taste slightly different, showing off the flavors of each terroir, just like the grapes and climate that attribute to wine-making. The butter from one farm will also change from season to season. For instance, the butter will be more yellow and slightly more unctuous from a late-summer batch than from say, an early spring batch. Many dairies also prefer to culture their cream before turning it into butter, which produces a rich and tangy flavor, in comparison to the sweet cream butter you'd normally get.

I've taste-tested several butters from small creameries (one from Maryland) across the mid-Atlantic and New England regions. (All are from antibiotic and hormone-free milk.) There are certainly many more than this, but these are readily available here in the Baltimore area for purchase. The results are listed below, along with taste descriptions, cost, and local purveyor information.


Vermont Butter & Cheese Company Cultured Butter (Websterville, Vermont)

A co-op of several farms supply the milk for this delicious cultured butter, with one of the highest fat contents I've seen, of 86% fat. Easily my favorite butter of all time, it is extremely creamy, with a full and rich flavor. Absolutely delicious with sourdough breads. Extremely velvety and pliable. Terrific table butter, and excellent for baking/cooking as well.

Flavors: Unsalted, Lightly Salted, Sea Salt Crystals
Packaging: 8-oz. rolls
Unit Price (per ounce): $0.49
Source: Atwater's at Belvedere Square (also available at Wegman's for more $$)
Website: Vermont Butter & Cheese Company


Trickling Springs Creamery Butter (Chambersburg, Pennsylvania)

A very strong cream taste with very little tang, with a mild depth of flavor. I have used this butter in baking cakes and making buttercreams with terrific results. The texture is more flaky than creamy, and pale in coloration.

Flavors: Unsalted, Salted
Packaging: 1-lb. tubs and 20-lb. containers (for commercial use)
Unit Price (per ounce): $0.36
Source: Atwater's at Belvedere Square
Website: Trickling Springs Creamery


South Mountain Creamery Butter (Middletown, Maryland)

A very smooth butter, with a strong, lingering aftertaste. I bought a container in August last year, and it was a bright yellow color with a deep, lasting aroma, that wasn't altogether pleasant. Very heavy on the tongue and overpowering. However, it may taste slightly different during other seasons. Still good, and with a high fat content. I would use this more in cooking than as a table butter.

Flavors: Unsalted, Salted, Brown Sugar & Cinnamon, Dill & Garlic
Packaging: 1-lb. containers (unsalted and salted); 8-oz. containers (brown sugar and dill/garlic)
Unit Price (per ounce): $0.30 (salted and unsalted), $0.37 (brown sugar and dill/garlic)
Source: Waverly Farmers Market, Mill Valley Garden Center (2800 Sisson St.)
Website: South Mountain Creamery


Mendon Creamery Butter (Mendon, Massachusetts)


With at least 80% milkfat content, this butter is smooth and surprisingly light on the palate, but not extremely rich. Mild. The unsalted version has little depth of flavor, but tastes like good sweet cream. The Maple Cream flavor is my favorite, with a subtly sweet maple base, accented with sea salt crystals. Very pliable in texture, with a pale yellow color. Excellent table butter, with creative array of flavors.

Flavors: Unsalted, Salted, Maple Cream, Roasted Garlic, Cinnamon Sugar, Lemon Herb, Chocolate
Packaging: 8-oz. paper tubs
Unit Price (per ounce): $0.62
Source: Atwater's at Belvedere Square (also available at Wegman's for more $$)

nián gāo

Nian Gao means "sticky cake" in Chinese, but is more commonly known as rice cakes. I remember this dish being a staple at every Chinese potluck party I went to as a kid. Glistening with a coat of sesame oil, a big ceramic bowl would emerge from the microwave, reheated, its contents steaming and amorphous. Simple to make ahead and reheat, it's also quite a filling dish, sticking to everything it adheres to, your teeth, roof of your mouth, your ribs, and then your gut. Not fatty nor even heavy, nian gao are made from ground-up glutinous rice. They are then shaped into "ovalettes," or at least that's what you'll find on the packaging at most Asian markets.

nian gao "ovalettes"

This dish is the savory version of making nian gao, but around Chinese New Year, there's a sweet cake-like variety that's given from family to family, with many probably being re-gifted. It would be the Chinese equivalent of fruitcake. You may have seen it at the store, it comes in a large, dense round, oftentimes, colored maroon or red, always in a vacuum-sealed bag. The store-bought versions are disgustingly sweet; I much prefer the homemade ones made by our family friend (she adds red beans and sometimes mung beans), steamed or friend, then sliced and dipped in sugar.

This has always been a comfort food for me, sticky and warm, with the perfect balance of sticky rice, vegetables and meat. My family doesn't eat too much of it, since it's more of a Southern Chinese dish, from the Shanghai region. When heated in the wok, the nian gao slowly melt and give way to the rest of the components of the dish, beautifully melding everything together with its release of starches. If you've ever had Korean dduk (the thick rope-shaped rice cakes), you'll know what I'm talking about. Nian gao are basically the same thing, just flatter from being sliced on the bias from a similar rope shape.

Typically nian gao is stir-fried with some type of cabbage (most prefer Napa), pork, bamboo shoots, and shitake mushrooms, but you can also use other greens like bok choy, mustard greens, or Chinese broccoli.


Stir-fried Nian Gao
serves 4

2-3 cups nian gao slices, fresh (frozen) or dried
4 cups Napa cabbage, chopped into 1" wide pieces
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4" slices
5 shitake mushrooms, sliced
1/4 lb pork tenderloin, cut into 1/8" slices, then slivered
2 Tbsp Shaoxing cooking wine
1 Tbsp minced ginger
1 clove garlic, minced
3 Tbsp oyster sauce
2 Tbsp soy sauce
2 tsp sugar
1 tsp ground white pepper
1 1/2 Tbsp sesame oil
vegetable oil, for stir-frying

1. The night before, soak nian gao in cold water. Drain well the next day just prior to using.

2. Heat 2 Tbsp of oil over high heat in the wok, and cook the pork with 1 Tbsp Shaoxing wine, half the ginger and garlic until no longer pink. Remove and set aside.

3. With wok still heated, add 1 Tbsp oil. Over high heat, cook the cabbage, carrots and shitake until the cabbage starts to wilt, about 2 minutes. Stir in the nian gao and cook to desired consistency, about 3-5 minutes. Along with the nian gao, add in the reserved pork, remaining Shaoxing wine, ginger and garlic, oyster and soy sauce, sugar and white pepper. Just before serving, stir in the sesame oil over medium heat. Serve immediately.

i turn 1!

Birthday or anniversary? A year ago, I posted the very first entry about a very special Easter dinner, and Curiously Ravenous was conceived. I had no idea at the time where I wanted to take my writing, or my cooking. I just knew that I wanted to be able to share a part of me with anyone who would listen, anyone who loves to eat, and anyone who lives to eat. In this year alone, I've had the great honor to meet passionate, quirky, sincere individuals who have inspired me in more ways than they will ever know. Because they've helped me to realize a goal, a love that I never knew existed in me, and have helped me to grow, learn, and strengthen my roots.

We are a community who shares a love for food, no matter how we choose to express it- writers, photographers, cooks, sculptors, critics... A friend of mine said something quite poignant the other day, which I'll share with you. "Why do I love food? It never lets you down. And if it does, you know there's still more out there." And just like that, the friends and acquaintances I've met this year never cease to inspire me with their daily creations, be it successes or failures in the kitchen, always teaching me a thing or two.

Cheers!

zola

Just returned from a catered sit-down dinner at Zola in DC, which is the restaurant associated with the International Spy Museum. I've always loved the space and the architecture of the restaurant; very intimate and cozy, yet still quite contemporary. In the main dining room, booths are separated by plush walls, punctuated with a secret spy hole.

There were about 60 of us tonight, mostly lawyers and some British barristers, all with discriminating palates. The food, though not as refined as any of their a la carte dishes (I recommend the Duck Chopped Salad- they do a good job with their duck confit, which is served over greens, with a poached egg, and fresh figs), was still quite good (that being the general consensus of the evening). A worthy choice to consider for your next catered event. With its proximity to the MCI Center, Zola offers great pre-theater menus. The bar is interactive, intimate, and one of my favorites in DC.

Tonight the salad was mediocre- too sweet and very crudely chopped. Two entrees were available, pan-seared salmon with saffron orzo, and roast chicken with celery root and a black truffle sabayon. The dessert was fantastic- shortcake of fresh berries, whipped cream, and a balsamic red wine sauce. I wouldn't judge the restaurant based on a catered dinner (they are always pared down anyway). With Zola being one of my old favorites, I'd definitely recommend it to anyone.

Field Greens - red leaf, curly endive, chicory, cucumbers, aged Muscat golden raisins.

Pan seared salmon, saffron orzo, Spanish olives, citrus tarragon butter

Zola
800 F Street, NW
Washington, DC 20004

cakelove, revisited

I've written many many reviews. And yes, I pass judgment. But I always continue to tell myself that judging an establishment based on one single visit cannot suffice (unless the rest of my readers all agree with me). It simply doesn't tell the whole story. Perhaps a partial one, but everyone is entitled to an off night, a cappuccino with wimpy foam, overcooked eggs, or an undercooked burger. It happens. I make note of it, and I accept it.

In my last review of Cakelove, I didn't give it very high marks, based on many reasons- corny product advertisement, lackluster pastries, overratedness, and unreasonably high prices. These are all valid and good reasons, but at the time, I had failed to taste any of their layer cakes. So I guess what I'm saying is that Cakelove has, for me, redeemed itself in that one department, and has given me something quite positive to say about the quality of their cakes. My stance on their prices has not budged, and I will explain why in a minute.

With my birthday last month, Mr.S suggested we get a Cakelove cake. To appease my craving for something pink and sweet, he picked out the "Susie's a Pink Lady" cake- vanilla cake with raspberry buttercream and fresh raspberries sandwiched in between. Certainly I had my doubts, but I was sincerely excited as I peeled back the pretty packaging. C'mon, what girl doesn't get giddy at the sight of her very own 6" fresh buttercream cake, with her name on it!


We let the cake come to room temperature (you should always do this in order to fully appreciate the flavors from the fresh butter) and cut in. Absolutely delicious. I could instantly tell that it was fresh and homemade, with no off flavors, and full fat, Swiss meringue buttercream. Though slightly sweeter than I prefer, the buttercream was still pretty amazing and light in texture. There was just the right amount of tart versus sweetness in each bite.

Though happily surprised by the cake itself, I was disappointed and felt guilty about the price Mr.S paid for it. $36 for a 6" cake, with the next size up at 9" costing $65. For a relatively simple and straightforward cake, this pricetag seems a bit hefty to me. So final thought- sure, it's a perfectly delicious cake, all handmade with quality ingredients, but that price would make me (and I'm sure, anyone else) look twice.

Cakelove
The Can Company
2500 Boston Street
Baltimore, MD 21224

a&j restaurant

It's always amazed me just how many carbs Chinese people can pack away, and still manage to stay trim. It's not surprising to see little kids bury their heads in a big bowl of noodles, or eat a pound of rice with their lunch. I grew up in such a carb-friendly, non-Atkins land where noodles, rice, buns, pancakes and dumplings were present at every meal, and I happily partook in all the abundance. Grains and rice are referred to as "staple foods" in Chinese, and are typically eaten at the end of the meal, to sort of seal the deal (as if all the courses that came before weren't enough).

And so I was happily reunited with the foods of my childhood at A&J, a small and casual Chinese eatery that specializes in Northern Chinese dishes, and who do a hearty and satisfying dimsum service on the weekends. You won't find any carts being pushed around here with shrimp dumplings (that's Cantonese style); you order off the menu, or you could always point to what your neighbors are having at the next table (most likely a big bowl of spicy peanut noodles.) The menu is heavily accented with noodle dishes (wheat being a more common staple in the North) and dumpling-like things. Smoked meats are prevalent, as well as small vegetable side dishes, congee, and the ever popular hot soymilk (you can get it salty, sweet, or with no flavor) and long Chinese crullers. The prices are so affordable that you can try many things without exhausting the coffers. Here are some dishes I recommend (and Mr.S can second).

Guō Tiē - crispy and golden potstickers. These are made in a small pan, with the wrappers left open at the ends, so that juices from the filling can help to steam and add flavor to the dumplings as they cook.

That's the smoked chicken in the very back there, wonderfully deep notes of tea, and well-salted. Chinese crullers in front of that, for dipping into your bowl of soymilk. In the very front is a hard-boiled egg braised in aromatic stock and seasonings.

[left] Edamame, bamboo shoots and mustard greens tossed in sesame oil. [right] Spicy and garlicky cucumber salad.

Spicy peanut noodles (always ask for the wide noodles).

Scallion pancakes. These were good, but could have been better (more flaky and light).

Hóng Yóu Chāo Shǒu - Pork wontons tossed in a delicious sweet and spicy chili oil, with scallions. (Get a second order of these; they won't last long.)

If you go on the weekend, be ready to wait in line anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes. And remember, this isn't anywhere near high-end Chinese cuisine; the food is rustic, homey, somewhat greasy, but altogether filling and 100% delicious.


A&J Restaurant
1319-C Rockville Pike
Rockville, MD 20852

chocolate raspberry madeleines

There's something about afternoon tea that I love. The idea of sneaking in a whole other meal of sandwiches and biscuits, and calling it tea, is ingenious. Perhaps it is its ability to civilize even the most etiquette-challenged of individuals, at least for one afternoon. Madeleines, of course, are French, and probably would have never found their way into a British tea. But it's my tea party, and I'll make what I want to. Besides, madeleines are so delightful. Great for dunking, yet still elegant and refined.

I made this chocolate version for Easter dinner with Mr.S's family. Flavored with a dollop of raspberry preserves, they are nuanced with another layer of sweetness.


If anyone has suggestions on a good madeleine pan, or know of how to keep the pretty little cakes from sticking, please let know. Mine is from Williams Sonoma, heavy gauge steel with a non-stick finish. Any help would be appreciated!


Chocolate Raspberry Madeleines
loosely adapted from Cooks Illustrated
yields 12 madeleines

4 Tbsp all purpose flour
1/4 cup cocoa powder
pinch salt
2 large egg yolks
1 large egg
1/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 Tbsp raspberry liquor, such as Chambord
4 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted
raspberry preserves

1. Preheat oven to 375F. Brush madeleine pan with melted butter; dust lightly with flour. Sift together flour, cocoa powder and salt in a bowl; set aside.

2. Beat yolks with egg on high until light and pale, about 5 minutes. Add in sugar and vanilla; continue beating for another 3 minutes until ribbons in the batter start to form. Gently fold in flour mixture, then melted butter and Chambord.

3. Spoon the batter into the molds, filling them halfway. Drop a dollop of raspberry preserves into the center of each, and finish by spooning the remaining half of the batter on top. The batter should come level with the rim of the mold. Bake for about 10-12 minutes, or until cakes spring back when gently pressed. Loosen each cake and turn out onto a dry towel; allow to cool completely.

quick cream dressing

I've had my eye on a certain cookbook for a long time now, and finally am able to call it my own. So I have to say that I am a huge nerd, and that's ok with me. On Saturday afternoons, nothing makes me happier than watching a bit of Maryland public television, and visiting my good friend Jacques Pépin. Fast Food My Way is a compilation of his recipes from this show, wonderfully simple French dishes, all quick enough to put together for a weeknight dinner, without sacrificing his usual elegance or flavor. What's particularly appealing is his incorporation of his childhood favorites from his mother's kitchen, one of which stood out to me for its simplicity. Pépin remembers his maman's salad that she would frequently serve the kids, a simple salad of bibb lettuce tossed with a cream dressing.

For this dish, use a high quality heavy cream, preferably not ultra-pasteurized, or else it will have difficulty thickening up. (I use cream from Trickling Springs Dairy; expensive yes, but you won't be sorry.) The sweet cream really shines through, light and velvety on the tongue. Fresh spring vegetables are recommended, all lush and verdant. I had some nice thick asparagus and fresh peas on hand. Blanched brussels sprouts would be especially tasty too.


Quick Cream Dressing
from Fast Food My Way
yields 4 servings

Be careful not to overwhip the cream. If overwhipped, the dressing will thicken quickly after the vinegar addition. It it thickens too much, dilute it with 1 tbsp water before tossing it with the vegetables.

1/4 cup good quality heavy cream
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp ground black pepper
1 1/2 tsp red wine vinegar

1. Just before serving, put the cream, salt, and pepper in a salad bowl and whip with a whisk for about 15 seconds, or just until frothy. Stir in the vinegar.

2. Add the vegetables or greens, and lightly toss in the dressing. Serve immediately.

yóu tiáo

I've talked about yóu tiáo before. These Chinese style crullers are solely responsible for making my childhood deliciously greasy and thus memorable. I would gladly get out of a warm bed at 6 in the morning to pick up a bag of these from a street vendor. Sadly, this doesn't exist in the U.S. At least, not freshly-fried ones, and no street food hawkers that early in the morning. In the meantime, I'll settle for some donuts.


I like mine dipped in hot, sweet soymilk. Others in my family like plain soymilk and congee. The one thing we can all agree on is that the yóu tiáo must be crispy, fluffy in the center, and hot hot hot. A breakfast of yóu tiáo and spicy pickled cold dishes is a must every time I visit my grandparents. Families very rarely make these at home anymore; the process is simply too time-consuming and all around greasy for the home kitchen. Besides, freshly-fried, made to order ones can be found in small diners and with street vendors every morning for about 5 cents apiece.

You can find packaged frozen you tiao in most Asian grocery stores, but their taste and texture leave much to be desired. Nothing beats a freshly-fried cruller, to be consumed on the spot. No room for leftovers here!



Chinese Crullers - You Tiao
from Chinese Snacks

3 cups bread flour
1 cup water
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
oil for frying

1. Stir together baking powder, soda and salt with the water. Add flour and mix well. Let stand for 15-20 minutes. Knead the dough until it comes together and becomes smooth and elastic. Turn the dough over and lightly coat the surface with oil. Let stand for 1 hour.

2. Turn the dough out onto a sheet of plastic wrap and form into a rectangular shape. Cut the dough into 1 1/2 lb. rectangular pieces and wrap each in plastic. Let stand for 4 hours.

3. Roll the dough out into a long rectangle, 3" wide and 1/16" thick. Cut crosswise into strips of 1/3" wide. Put two strips on top of each other, and with the back of a knife, gently press down lengthwise in the middle of the strip to attach them together. Do the same for the remaining strips.

4. Heat the oil for deep frying. Holding onto the ends of each strip, gently stretch out the dough into a long strip, a little over a foot in length. Repeat this process for the other strips. Drop into the hot oil. Turn the dough with chopsticks continuously until the cruller expands and turns golden brown. Remove and cool on paper towels. Serve immediately.