golden kiwi and strawberry tarte

Somehow when fresh fruit is added to a dessert, it helps to negate a portion of the calories...it just doesn't seem as bad for you anymore, does it? That's exactly how I feel of fruit tartes. The eggy custard of the creme patissiere and the rich buttery crust can't possibly be that fattening since the layer of fruit on top is sure to clean out your arteries!

I made this favorite dessert of my mom's for her recent birthday dinner. I forgot how nice it is to work in a big spacious kitchen, especially when doing pastry work. My parents have 2 kitchens, one for Chinese heavy-duty stir-frying where the exhaust hood can literally suck the shirt off your back, and one for light cooking and entertaining. Even then, it still boasts a 5-burner range top, 2 ovens, and ample marble countertops. And they hardly use all this! Nevertheless, I took full advantage and got down and dirty with my dough.

Pastry work is extremely soothing for me. It's methodical- certain steps must be followed and each step involves using your hands, either gently or with force, but always with some degree of precision. The crust in this recipe is the most time consuming, but if you are up for the challenge, you will be well rewarded with a delicious crumbly piece of delightfulness.



Fresh Fruit Tarte- Golden Kiwi, Strawberry, Creme Patissiere
adapted from Baking Illustrated

Equipment
oblong fluted tart pan, with removable bottom
pastry board
rolling pin
fine mesh sieve
pastry brush

Tarte Pastry
1 egg yolk
1-2 tbsp heavy cream
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups all purpose flour
2/3 cup confectioner's sugar
pinch salt
8 tbsp (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Pastry Cream
2 cups half and half
1/2 cup sugar
pinch salt
5 egg yolks
3 tbsp cornstarch
4 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 tsp vanilla extract

Fruit Topping
strawberries, hulled and sliced
golden kiwi**, peeled and sliced
2 tbsp apricot jelly
1 tbsp brandy

1. For the Tart Pastry: Whisk together yolk, cream, and vanilla in small bowl; set aside. Pulse to combine flour, sugar, and salt in bowl of food processor. Scatter butter pieces over flour mixture; pulse to cut butter into flour until mixture resembles coarse meal. With machine running, add egg mixture and process until dough just comes together, about 25 seconds. Turn dough onto sheet of plastic wrap and press into a small brick. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate at about 1 hour.

2. Remove dough from refrigerator. Unwrap and roll out between lightly floured large sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap to 6x18 inch rectangle. Transfer dough to tart pan by rolling dough loosely around rolling pin and unrolling over tart pan. Working around the edge of the pan, press dough into fluted sides of pan. (If some edges are too thin, reinforce sides by folding excess dough back on itself.) Run rolling pin over top of tart pan to remove excess dough. Freeze for 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375F. Set dough-lined tart pan on baking sheet, press foil inside frozen tart shell and over edges and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes, rotating halfway through baking time. Remove from oven and carefully remove foil and weights by gathering edges of foil and pulling up and out. Continue to bake until deep golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes longer. Set baking sheet with tart shell on wire rack to cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

4. For the Pastry Cream: Heat half-and-half, 6 tablespoons sugar, and salt in medium saucepan over medium heat until simmering, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar.

5. Meanwhile, whisk egg yolks in medium bowl until thoroughly combined. Whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and whisk until sugar has begun to dissolve and mixture is creamy, about 15 seconds. Whisk in cornstarch until combined and mixture is pale yellow and thick, about 30 seconds.

6. When half-and-half mixture reaches full simmer, gradually whisk simmering half-and-half into yolk mixture to temper. Return mixture to saucepan, and simmer over medium heat, whisking constantly, until 3 or 4 bubbles burst on surface and mixture is thickened and glossy, about 30 seconds. Off heat, whisk in butter and vanilla. Press the custard through a fine mesh sieve to remove any lumps. Transfer mixture to medium bowl, press plastic wrap directly on surface, and refrigerate until cold and set, at least 3 hours or up to 48 hours.

7. Assembly: When tart shell is completely cool, spread cold pastry cream over bottom, using offset spatula or large spoon. Arrange fruit on top of pastry cream, following a design of your choice.

8. Microwave jelly for ~20 seconds. Stir in the brandy. With a pastry brush, gently dab and brush on fruit to glaze. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes to let set up. Remove outer metal of tart pan, slide thin metal spatula between bottom of crust and tart pan bottom to release, then slip tart onto erving platter; serve.

**The kiwi originates from Southern China. Seeds of the fruit were first introduced to New Zealand circa 1908, where it later flourished. The golden kiwi variety is man cultivated. The taste is sweeter and far less tart than its green brethren. You can find them here in the U.S. during the summer months. They are lighter brown in color, with appreciably less fuzz, and have a characteristic funny little nub at one end.

mom's birthday dinner

We celebrated my mom's birthday over the weekend. She asked for a nice dinner at home, no muss and fuss of dining out. That's fine by me, since my dad's home cooking is what I consider my ultimate comfort food. Many of his dishes are passed down from his father, my grandpa, a real chef and legend in our hometown in northeast China. Many of the ingredients my dad used were fresh from his garden- peppers, japanese eggplant, scallions, cucumbers and tomatoes. I let him take care of the main courses while I prepared a fresh fruit tarte for dessert. We dined, wined, and celebrated my mom's birthday, her youth and vitality, in the comfort of our kitchen.

Kao Da Xia - Wok Fired Jumbo Shrimp

Jiao Xhi Yu - Sweet and Tangy Crispy Whole Fish

You Chao Qiezi La Jiao - Spicy Eggplant and Pepper Stir Fry

Garlic Stir-fried Broccoli and Snow Peas

Fresh Fruit Tarte - Strawberries, Golden Kiwi, Creme Patissiere

Also on the menu, but not pictured-
Butter lettuce salad with avocado, cucumbers, and dates
Red bean (Adzuki) congee

umeshu

S-A-T-U-R-D-A-Y-night! Mr.S and I spent Saturday evening at a Baltimore foodie party, hosted by fellow blogger, Rachel. Everyone brought interesting liquors and beverages... limoncello, Pimms, Sangrita, Unicum... We brought this bottle of Japanese plum wine and sweet wasabi pickles to complement (see previous post). Called umeshu, this wine is made by soaking green plums, ume, in clear distilled liquor, shochu, for up to 12 years. It is sweet and warm-tasting, and reminded me of ice wine.

One of the most popular brands is called Choya. The website gives recipes for using umeshu in seasonal drinks, my favorite being the Choya Royal, a mixture of umeshu and dry champagne. Another interesting one is mixing 2 parts umeshu with 3 parts beer. Mmmmm.... I'm fairly convinced that the design of the bottle is what adds to the appeal of this wine- it reminded me of a sports water bottle or a Voss bottle with its straight shape and big cap lid. Hours of fun!

sweet wasabi pickles

Got a minute? Well, then you got pickles! These are so quick and simple to make, and can easily be made in small or large batches. I love to use wasabi in salad dressings and marinades- it adds a whole other layer of depth and flavor to a cold dish. Try just a little if you are sensitive to the sinus-clearing effects of this wondrous root!

I must thank my parents for providing me with these fresh from the vine cucumbers from their garden. They were still covered with a layer of pricklies. If you don't have access to super fresh cukes, I recommend using Kirby cucumbers, a smaller variety that are ~6 inches long, since they are firmer and crunchier.

Sweet Wasabi Pickles

2 medium cucumbers (firm to the touch), sliced extra thin
2 tbsp rice wine vinegar
2 tbsp mirin**
2-3 tsp sugar (depending on how sweet you like them)
1.5-2 tbsp wasabi paste
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

Spread the cucumber slices in a thin layer in a shallow pan or casserole dish. (Enough so that they do not sit mounded.) Whisk together vinegar, mirin, sugar, and wasabi. Pour over the cucumbers. Sprinkle the pepper flakes on top.

You can eat them right away, or let marinade in the fridge for a few hours.

** Mirin is Japanese sweet rice cooking wine. It has a low alcohol content which lends it a unique flavor. You can find this at Asian markets, next to the soy sauces. For the best tasting mirins, you want to look at the ingredients on the back of the bottle. Make sure that the alcohol content is high, or is one of the first 2-3 major ingredients listed.

a wedding shower

First you get engaged, then comes the wedding shower, bachelorette party, the big day, the honeymoon. The union of two people is much cause for celebration. The story of many a young couple begins as such, planning, laughing and crying, all the while carefully watched over (and many times scrutinized) by mothers, fathers, friends... It's all so stressful and yet so completely worth the tears, heartache, and heartburn! At the end of it all, you are left with the person whom you'll begin a family with, a life with. And to think it all started with a simple crush....

Many of my girlfriends have gotten engaged recently and the kickoff to parties, luncheons, weddings, and receptions has begun. In all honesty, they leave me a little sad. It's gotten me thinking about my own wedding, however soon or far off it may be, and just how few family members will be there with me. All of them are overseas, and since I'm an only child, the bride's side of the room seems a little lonely to me. Well, nevertheless, I will have many friends there to eat and drink with me, all of whom I consider family, the best and biggest family.

I attended Mr.S's sister's wedding shower this weekend. The theme was a kitchen shower, in which guests were asked to bring the bride their favorite recipes, and in which most the gifts were kitchen-friendly. It was all so endearing, sitting under the tent in the yard, nibbling on finger sandwiches, salads, and petits fours.


I baked a cake for the occasion, a simple white layer cake, with vanilla buttercream and the last of the season's blueberries. It was my first time sugaring the fruit, and it turned out wonderfully! I was happy with the cake too, soft and light, simple and classic. Cheers to the happily soon-to-be-married couple!

White Layer Cake with Vanilla Buttercream and Fresh Blueberries
adapted from Baking Illustrated

Cake:
2 1/4 cups cake flour, plus more for dusting the pans
1 cup whole milk, at room temperature
6 large egg whites (3/4 cup), at room temperature
2 tsp almond extract
1 tsp
1 3/4 cups sugar
4 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
12 tbsp (1 1/2 sticks), softened but still cool

Buttercream:
4 large egg whites
1 cup sugar
pinch salt
1 lb unsalted butter (4 sticks), cut into pieces, softened, but still cool
1 tsp vanilla extract

Blueberries:
½ cup fresh blueberries
1 tsp egg white
½ cup sugar

1. For the Cake: Set oven rack in middle position. Heat oven to 350F. Spray two 9-inch round cake pans with nonstick cooking spray; line the bottoms with parchment or waxed paper rounds. Spray the paper rounds, dust the pans with flour, and invert pans and rap sharply to remove excess flour.

2. Pour milk, egg whites, and extracts into 2-cup glass measure, and mix with fork until blended.

3. Mix cake flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in bowl of electric mixer at slow speed. Add butter; continue beating at slow speed until mixture resembles moist crumbs, with no powdery streaks remaining.

4. Add all but 1/2 cup of milk mixture to crumbs and beat at medium speed for 1 1/2 minutes. Add remaining 1/2 cup of milk mixture and beat 30 seconds more. Stop mixer and scrape sides of bowl. Return mixer to medium speed and beat 20 seconds longer.

5. Divide batter evenly between two prepared cake pans; using rubber spatula, spread batter to pan walls and smooth tops. Bake until thin skewer or toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 23 to 25 minutes.

6. Let cakes rest in pans for 3 minutes. Loosen from sides of pans with a knife, if necessary, and invert onto wire racks. Reinvert onto additional wire racks. Let cool completely, about 1 1/2 hours.

7. For the Buttercream: Combine whites, sugar, and salt in bowl of standing mixer; set bowl over saucepan containing 1 1/2-inches of barely simmering water. Whisk constantly until mixture is opaque and warm to the touch and registers about 120 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 2 minutes.

8. Transfer bowl to mixer and beat whites on high speed with whisk attachment until barely warm (about 80 degrees) and whites are glossy and sticky, about 7 minutes. Reduce speed to medium-high and beat in butter 1 piece at a time. Beat in vanilla extract. Stop mixer and scrape bottom and sides of bowl. Continue to beat at medium-high speed until well-combined, about 1 minute.

9. Sugared blueberries: Coat the blueberries in egg white and roll in a shallow pan with the sugar until all the berries are covered.

10. Assemble the cake: Spread cream and berries on the first layer of cake.

Add the second layer of cake. Frost the top and sides.

Arrange the berries on top in a circle first then mound the sugared berries in the middle.

b bistro

I remember dining at b when it first opened, many years back. The food and service has fluctuated through the years, as to be expected, but what remains contant to me is the ambiance of a real neighborhood eatery. It blends in so well with the surrounding historic homes that you'd most likely drive by without notice, were it not for the diners softly buzzing over their plates and glasses of wine, outside clustered on the sidewalk. It's a wonderful place to relax on a summer night, with no where to be but with friends.

There is a list of specials every night, a choice of appetizer, salad, pasta dish, fish, and "butcher's block." The open kitchen in the back is the only reminder that you are not dining at a good friend's home for a dinner party.

We started with a bottle of Vouvray. Two of us ordered pizzas, one with calamari, the other mixed mushrooms. They weren't mind-blowingly good...then again, you can't really mess up a pizza. The crust could have been thinner and less cheese on top would have highlighted the toppings better. Rather, it was covered in a gooey layer of cheesey swampland. Taste was ok, according to my friends.


I split the mussels with another friend, since they were a large portion. Tender and juicy, but we both agreed the broth could have been more savory or fragrant. It was very tomato-ey, and could have used more garlic. But.... we still ate it all up! We also ordered some salads and appetizers- the tomato and mozzarella salad and roasted eggplant and pepper, with mozzarella and pesto. The flavors were all great and colors beautiful.


Our lovely evening was marred when a neighborhood dog was run over by a car in the street...but luckily it wasn't badly injured.

So go, stay a while, enjoy a bottle of wine and one of the most charming neighborhoods in Baltimore.

b bistro
1501 Bolton Street
Baltimore, MD 21217

avocado pound cake

If you think about it, the avocado is a fruit. Its intense creaminess lends it to be the perfect nonpartisan player in the great divide between savory and sweet. Sure it is best known for its leading role in guacamole as well as in California rolls and salads, but in many South American and South Asian cultures, avocado is used in dessert dishes. The batidos of Brazil incorporate creamy fruits like avocado with milk to make silky shakes. A popular treat in Indonesia combines avocado, condensed milk and chocolate syrup to yield a decadent smoothie. In last month's Saveur, contributor Andrea Nguyen wrote about the her love of fresh avocado drizzled with condensed milk, fresh from he farmer's market. In the U.S., Californians, by far, treasure the avocado, one of their native fruits. There is even an annual avocado festival held in Carpinteria where delightful dishes like avocado ice cream and avocado pie abound. There is also avocado pound cake, of which I have yet to find a recipe for, so I decided to create my own.

I forgot that avocado can act like butter due to its high fat content, so I basically added twice the amount fat that a pound cake needs. Not that that's a bad thing. The cake did turn out super moist and almost gooey. So if you are looking for more of a cake-like poundcake, keep the same amount of avocado, just reduce the amount of butter and add a bit more flour. What you will bring forth from your oven is a loaf of sweet, nutty complex flavors. The combination of the creamy pastel green and the buttery carbo-goodness will make your heart lift oh-so-high.

Avocado Pound Cake
makes a 9-inch loaf

DRY INGREDIENTS:
3/4 cup all purpose flour
3/4 cup cake flour
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking powder

WET INGREDIENTS:
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp vanilla
2 tsp lemon zest
1/2 cup sour cream
2 ripe avocado, cubed

1. Preheat oven to 325F. Grease the bottom and sides of a 9x5x3 loaf pan.

2. In a large bowl, sift together the dry ingredients. Set aside.

3. In another bowl, cream the butter and sugar until pale and light in texture. Add vanilla, and one egg at a time, while still mixing. Beat in the avocado until batter is smooth. Mix in sour cream and lemon zest. Wih a spatula, gently fold in the dry ingredients, without overworking the batter. The batter will be slightly dry. Pour it into the prepared pan.

4. Bake about 1 hour or until a knife inserted in the middle comes out clean, and top of cake is golden.

pad thai

This is a very straightforward and authentic recipe for pad thai, one of my most loved dishes. It plays on different flavors simultaneously- sour, sweet, salty, and umami. Mr.S and I frequently get carry-out thai on our busy nights; I have a feeling we'll be cutting back now that I can easily make this at home. I admit I am a bit of a pad thai snob; this recipe definitely seals the deal.

The prep is more time consuming than the actual cooking process.

Ingredients from top left:

thin rice noodles
shrimp
roasted peanuts
scallion
marinated dried tofu
bean sprouts
eggs
salted radish
seasoning sauce- tamarind pulp**, fish sauce, palm sugar, chili powder


Pad Thai
serves 2

Pad Thai Sauce:
1/4 cup fish sauce
1/4 cup tamarind pulp
1/4 cup palm sugar
1 tsp chili powder

10-12 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/4 cup roasted peanuts, rough chopped
1/4 cup salted radish
1/3 cup dried tofu, cut into matchstick size
2 stalks scallion, chopped
1 heaping cup bean sprouts
2 eggs
thin rice noodles, half of a 14-oz package
vegetable oil
orange slice, garnish

1. Noodles: In a large bowl, cover noodles with hot water, stir, and let soak until noodles are pliable but not too soft. Time will vary depending on how hot your water is. (generally about 15-20 minutes) Drain the noodles and set aside.

2. Sauce: Stir together fish sauce, tamarind, sugar and chili powder. Microwave for 20 seconds to gently dissolve the sugar. You can adjust the amount of each ingredient to your liking- for more sour, sweet, or salty.

3. In your wok: on high heat, add 3-4 Tbsp vegetable oil until smoking hot. Stir-fry the tofu until edges start to turn golden brown. Add the noodles and half of the reserved sauce. At this point, stir vigorously until all the noodles are covered in the sauce. Fry until noodles are soft. (Taste to make sure) Push the noodles to one side of the wok, and add 1 Tbsp oil to the empty half of the wok. Crack both eggs here and let set for about 15 seconds, and start to scramble. Push toward the noodles. Add the shrimp, scallions, radish, half of the peanuts, half of the sprouts, and remainder of the sauce to the empty side of the wok. Stir everything together, and fry for another 2 minutes until shrimp are cooked through.

4. Plate: Heap the noodles onto your plate. On the side of the noodles, and not on top, garnish with the rest of the peanuts and raw sprouts, and a slice of orange.


**tamarind pulp:
For the best flavor, make this from scratch. You can buy a box of tamarind, in which the tamarind are still in their pods. Crack open the hard shells, and remove the hard fibrous "spines" from the sticky meat inside. In a shallow bowl, place the shelled tamarind and cover with hot water. In an hour of two, with clean hands, mush the tamarind to make a paste, while removing and discarding the seeds. What remains will be a pile of brown mush, with the consistency of applesauce. Strain this through a fine mesh sieve to remove any fibrous pieces, and you will be left with wonderfully fresh tangy tamarind paste/pulp. This can be frozen for later use.

world's best blueberry scones

Like, seriously, the world's best. Biscuit doughs tend to be tricky. Thusly, if you follow these golden rules of biscuit making, you will be revered:

1.Butter must be cold, ice cold. Actually, all ingredients, dry and wet, and even mixing bowls should be kept chilled.
2.Butter must be evenly distributed throughout the dry ingredients before the wet ones are added.
3.Dough should be worked as little as possible.

It's not as easy as it sounds if you do not have the proper equipment. You'll need:

plenty of countertop space
pastry board
rolling pin
dough cutter/bench scraper
box grater
pastry brush
HANDS!

Be like a true Brit and slather scones with clotted cream and blackberry jam.

Blueberry Scones
adapted from Cooks Illustrated
makes 8 scones

8 Tbsp unsalted butter, frozen solid, plus additional 2 Tbsp, melted for brushing
1 1/2 cup fresh blueberries
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup sour cream
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp lemon zest

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. With the large holes on a box grater, grate the 8 tablespoons of frozen butter. Place grated butter in freezer until needed. Melt 2 tablespoons of remaining ungrated butter and set aside. Place blueberries in freezer until needed.

2. Whisk together milk and sour cream in medium bowl; refrigerate until needed. Whisk flour, 1/2 cup sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and lemon zest in chilled medium bowl. Add frozen butter to flour mixture and toss with fingers until thoroughly coated.

3. Add milk mixture to flour mixture; fold with spatula until just combined. With rubber spatula, transfer dough to liberally floured work surface. Dust surface of dough with flour; with floured hands, knead dough 6 to 8 times, until it just holds together in ragged ball, adding flour as needed to prevent sticking.

4. Roll dough into approximate 12-inch square. Fold dough into thirds like a business letter, using bench scraper to release dough if it sticks to countertop. Lift short ends of dough and fold into thirds again to form approximate 4-inch square. Transfer dough to plate lightly dusted with flour and chill in freezer 5 minutes.

5. Transfer dough to floured work surface and roll into approximate 12-inch square again. Sprinkle blueberries evenly over surface of dough, then press down so they are slightly embedded in dough. Using bench scraper or thin metal spatula, loosen dough from work surface. Roll dough, pressing to form tight log. Lay seam-side down and press log into 12 by 4-inch rectangle. Using sharp, floured knife, cut rectangle crosswise into 4 equal rectangles. Cut each rectangle diagonally to form 2 triangles and transfer to parchment-lined baking sheet.

6. Brush tops with melted butter and sprinkle with remaining tablespoon sugar. Bake until tops and bottoms are golden brown, 18 to 25 minutes. Transfer to wire rack and let cool 10 minutes before serving.

basil pesto

From the Baltimore Famer's Market last sunday, I brought home a pint of blueberries, a bagful of zucchini and squash, apple bran muffins, and a bundle of fragrant Italian basil. For a quick dinner last night, I made basil pesto, and tossed this with whole wheat penne, cherry tomatoes, caramelized onion, and sweet peas. The warmth of the pasta gently melts the parmigiano in the sauce, making it cling to all the beautiful ridges of the penne.



Basil Pesto

1/4 cup pinenuts, toasted until golden
1 cup fresh basil, packed
1/3 cup Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
1 clove garlic
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp salt

In a food processor, combine the pinenuts, basil, Parmigiano, and garlic. Mix until evenly chopped. While still running, drizzle in the oil, and add the salt. Mix until blended.

RECOMMENDATIONS:
-use real Parmigiano: the protein and flavor crystals from the aging process will be absolutely delicious in your sauce
-keep an eye on the pinenuts as they are toasting- the high oil content accelerates the cooking
-instead of hand grating the cheese, you can chop a block of it into smaller pieces, throw it into the food processor and let it do the work for you

a story of a craving

Well, I surely didn't whip butter for nothing (see previous post). Mr.S had a hankering for homemade chocolate chip cookies. I gladly belted my apron and turned up the heat. (It gave me a chance to test out a new recipe I have from a book I received as a Christmas present, Sherry Yard's Secrets of Baking.)

They were, eh..just ok. I prefer my cookies to spread out more when baking, producing a thinner chewier cookie with crisp round edges. These stayed mounded. The flavor was good; I'd give it a 7. The dough was on the dry side, which explains why the cookie did not fan out while baking. I would probably not make these again, as I'm picky about my choc chip cookies.

On another note, we had dumplings for dinner, which is another craving we commonly are afflicted with. Chicken with vegetable. Not as good as my mom and dad's. But still delicious.

whipped butter

pure decadence

retro recipe: lime fluff

With a population of less than 400, Smith Island, Maryland, lies in the Chesapeake Bay, accessible only by boat. It remains isolated from the rest of the world, yet preserved. Crabbers and fishermen still carry on the 300 year old tradition of harvesting from the water to support their families and their small community. Generations of fishermen's wives toil away in their kitchens, making the most of the abundance of the bay, passing on family recipes and traditions.
Ms. Frances Kitching, an island native, owned one of the most loved inns and restaurants on the island. Her recipes are passed down from her grandmother. Her fame began when in the 1950's she volunteered to cook for workers installing electric lines on the island. She later published a compilation of her recipes in 1981 simply titled Mrs. Kitching's Smith Island Cookbook. Some of these time-honored dishes include stewed crabmeat and dumplings, pan-browned wild duck, cracker pudding, Smith Island ten layer cake, and pickled watermelon rind.

For the Food Maven's Retro recipe challenge, finding a "wobbly" recipe (gelatins, aspics, molds, etc) from before 1985 was in order. I decided to make Mrs. Kitching's Lemon Fluff. It's ethereally light; it melts on your tongue! More so than ever, I found myself enthralled by the wonders of Jello.

When I recreated this recipe, I used lime Jello instead of lemon for a bit more tartness. The color reminded me of seafoam. The texture was that of mousse, but even lighter, and just as creamy. Best yet, the recipe is incredibly simple, my pet monkey could make it! This challenge definitely forced me to park myself in front of the Jello shelf (for the first time ever) in the baking aisle at the store. (When did there get to be so many flavors?? Anyway I'm certain I'll be making more frequent stops here.) Most importantly, retro recipes are really just snapshots of a moment in time, the mood and the trends of the people of that era. It teaches us the origins of many of the dishes we eat today, and recipes like Mrs. Kitching's teach us about good honest American food.


Lemon Fluff
From Mrs. Kitching's Smith Island Cookbook

1 3-oz. package lemon jello (I used lime)
1 cup water
1 13-oz. can evaporated milk
1 cup powdered sugar
2 Tbsp lemon juice
vanilla wafers

Chill evaporated milk. Dissolve jello in one cup water. (my recommendation: use hot water) Let gel slightly. Whip evaporated milk (after chilling) until stiff. To milk, add sugar, lemon juice, and jello. Line shallow baking dish with vanilla wafers. Pour jello mixture over top. Crumble wafers on top and refrigerate until firm.

atomic pop, city cafe, bluhouse

Our friends came to visit us on Saturday, and we hopped around the city all afternoon. Atomic Pop in Hamden serves up a new breed of baked goods, the totally inedible kind, but soft and plushy to engulf in a hug. I would totally take a bite out of one, were it not for the fact that they have faces, and such angelic ones at that!

For a late lunch, and a very unremarkable one, we dined at City Cafe in Mt. Vernon. There are no pictures, since there were well, basically none worth taking. I had caesar salad with shrimp, which was served as only chopped romaine and plain grilled shrimp and 3 grape tomatoes. Mr.S ordered an entree chicken salad, which turned out to be a measly paltry pitiful portion. The only satisfied customer at the table was our friend who ordered the turkey club, a very generous plateful with a heaping mound of fries. We all gazed longingly at his gluttinous portion while nibbling on our greens.


Then it was off to Bluhouse by Harbor East, an eco-friendly home furnishings store that's more zen than granola, and more apothecary than furniture store. The adjacent cafe is one of the most silent cafes I have ever been to. They serve organic and fair-trade coffees and teas, and an assortment of sandwiches and wraps from the superhealty Zia's in Towson. The pastries were again, unremarkable, as they looked like they were from Costco (and there's nothing wrong with that), just surprising when taking into account the higher end quality of their other products. The iced coffee was good, not acidic nor anything to that effect. They had no iced decaf on hand, so our friend resorted to ordering a decaf americano over ice, which as any coffee purist know, ruins a good shot of espresso. I would most definitely go back, but for the ambience only. And maybe also to test out a few hand cremes.

mango ginger chutney

Sweet, sour, spicy...I can eat chutney by the spoonful. It is by far one of my favorite condiments. Chutney's roots are in South Asia, predominantly India, where it is served with heavier meat dishes and curries.

I eat mine spread onto turkey and bacon sandwiches or with crusty bread and blue cheese.


Mango Ginger Chutney

1/4 cup packed brown sugar
1/3 cup sultanas (golden raisins)
scant 1/3 cup vinegar
1 heaping Tbsp onion, chopped
1 tsp fresh ginger, grated
1/2 tsp chili powder
1 cup mango, peeled and chopped

In a saucepan, combine sugar, raisins, vinegar, onion, ginger and chili powder. Bring to a boil, and reduce heat to low. Simmer uncovered for 5-7 minutes. Stir in the mango and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Let cool. May be refrigerated for up to 4 weeks.

five guys burgers and fries

In the lobby of my apartment, there is a Five Guys. This could be a really bad thing or a really really good thing. They do burgers and fries, and they do it well. Burgers are made to order, and you can add up to 15 toppings for free. Prices are affordable, as a plain hamburger starts at $3.99 (which includes 2, count them 2 patties) and a "little hamburger" at $2.69 (1 patty). A regular (as opposed to large) order of fries is more than enough for one, well maybe one extremely starved individual, but definitely sufficient for 2. The meat is always cooked to well-done, which may not be to the liking of many who prefer their burgers pink and juicy. My only peeve is that since the burgers are wrapped in foil while still warm, the buns tend to get limp and soggy. Otherwise, the flavors are straightforward, and the portions quite generous.

Mostly, it's convenient! And while you wait for your order, you can snack on all the peanuts you can eat and even toss the shells on the floor. There's unlimited drink refills, ketchup, and malt vinegar for your fries too. Overall, the food is clean, pure, and pretty much all natural, so it's probably better eating here over BK or McDonalds, but nonetheless, just as bad for your arteries.

candied tomatoes

It's the height of tomato season, and nothing beats the sweet explosion in your mouth after biting into a ripe cherry tomato, still warm from the vine. I found these lovely black cherry heirlooms at the market, all purplish-red with with a hue of green. They have a sweet complex flavor that lingers on the palate.

One of the best things about summer cooking is the abundance of salads you can make. Just about anything tastes wonderful together, given that its fresh, and thus true to its flavors. A salad doesn't necessarily have to have greens; it can be a simple julienne of root vegetables such as jicama and carrot. A sweet corn and pepper chow chow can also make a refreshing meal.

I candied these cherry tomatoes in a cinnamon-chile syrup. They pop in your mouth like delicious Red Hots.


Fennel and Apple Slaw with Salted Anchovy
Candied Black Cherry Tomatoes
serves 4

CANDIED TOMATOES
1 pint cherry tomatoes
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
1 Tbsp salt
3 dried Thai red chilies
1 cinnamon stick

SALAD
2 fennel bulbs, sliced thin lengthwise
1 apple, thin julienned
1 shallot, thin sliced
3 Tbsp fennel fronds, rough chopped
2 Tbsp rice wine vinegar
2 tsp sugar
1 tsp salt
12 filets anchovies in olive oil
olive oil for drizzling

1. Candy the tomatoes: Bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Cut a slit in the base of each tomato. Add the tomatoes to the boiling water and blanch until the skins begin to split, about 20 seconds. Drain the tomatoes and place them in an ice bath. Peel the tomatoes and gently put them into a shallow bowl.
2. In a saucepan, combine water, sugar, salt, chiles, and cinnamon; simmer over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Pour the syrup over the tomatoes and let stand for 30-45 minutes to infuse the flavors.
3. The salad: Lightly toss the fennel, apples, fronds, and shallot with the vinegar, sugar, and salt.
4. Plate: Mound the fennel slaw in the middle of the plate. Arrange 3 anchovy filets so that they drape down one side of the mound. Arrange tomatoes around the slaw and anchovies. Drizzle with olive oil.