almond tofu dessert

It's been a sauna here in Baltimore lately, and I've been craving chilled almond tofu. It's a traditional dessert all over Asia, popular during the hot summer months. It's a misnomer; not actually made from the curds of coagulated soymilk, almond tofu's main ingredients include agarose or gelatin (as a thickening agent), sugar, almond flavoring, and is usually whitened with milk or coconut milk. It has the consistency of silken tofu. Served with chilled fruit cocktail, it becomes a light yummy treat. I prefer mine with a few ice cubes.

I use a powdered mix that's sold at any asian market. It comes in 3 flavors: almond, honeydew melon, and mango. The steps are simple, mix the powder with some water and let boil, then add milk, and let set.

Some additional topping ideas you can try:
shaved ice, sweet red bean, dash of condensed milk
fresh berries and honey
fruit puree (mango, raspberry, peach...)
sliced toasted almonds

strawberries and cream cake

Happy summer! To celebrate the start of this hot and muggy season, I made my version of a strawberry cream cake. It's yellow layer cake with strawberry buttercream. I used unsalted butter from Trickling Springs Creamery, a farm in Chamberspurg, Pennsylvania that raises grass-fed cows. They offer a great selection of all natural and certified organic milks (all of which come in glass bottles), yogurt, and butter. The taste is really out of this world, and they are completely antibiotic and hormone free.

The cake was dense and moist and the buttercream so light and creamy. I used a yellow cake recipe from Baking Illustrated and a traditional Swiss buttercream recipe, starting with whipped egg whites and sugar, then adding the butter pat by pat, ending with a fresh strawberry puree.

nooks and crannies

As a kid, I ate my weight in Wonder bread and butter. This is my grown-up version: english muffins with butter and marmalade. It is oh-so-good when toasted; the butter and marmalade melt into tiny glistening pools. Yum... On my recent trip to Madrid, I discovered Mallorca, the city's most popular gourmet deli chain. It is the go-to place for delicate canapes, quality Iberian hams and chorizo, confections, and fresh baked buttery pastries. There is even a small marketplace offering the Bonito line of tuna and fish items, Marcona almonds and nuts, jars of plump white asparagus, and honeys and jam. I bought some pear jam with vanilla bean. Wow. The balance of sweet and tart is spot on, with afragrant aftertaste of vanilla.Too bad the jar was so small. The consistency was slightly runny, like baby food, rather than thick like jam. No pectin, perhaps? Anyway, it was just right for spreading, and the perfect reminder of alfresco brunches in sunny Spain.

MALLORCA
Serrano 6
Madrid, Spain

all american dinner

Last night I was in the mood for summer bbq food, but was too lazy to fire up the grill. We stayed in and broiled up some franks for hot dogs and had corn on the cob with salad. I was lusting after the Hidden Valley Ranch dressing (my favorite) earlier that afternoon at Safeway.

No, your eyes are not deceiving you. That is a huge weener! It's Hebrew National, a favorite of Mr. S, and in my opinion, is pretty tastey. For toppings, I prefer the trinity: ketchup, yellow mustard and sweet pickle relish. I know that a lot of Baltimoreans like their franks wrapped in bologna. I've also seen some strange toppings, including pork and beans. What do you like on your hot dogs? I'd love to hear your comments!

the daily grind

On any given Saturday morning, you may find me and Mr.S at the Daily Grind in Fells Point patiently waiting in long lines for the two things that signify the official beginning of the lazy weekend, my coffee and muffin. But not just any regular combination. I always order a double nonfat cappuccino, extra hot with an apple bran muffin.

The Grind uses beans from Key Coffee, a local Baltimore roaster. Just from observing the quick turnover rate of the inventory that comes through, you know that what's in your cup is fresh. It's robust and smooth, with low acidity. I have not tried their decaf brew, but I bet it's similarly pleasant. The foam that sits atop my capp is always staunch and unyielding to any wooden stirrers' attempts. The muffin is my favorite, mildly sweet, dense, and full of bran, wheat germ, and chunks of fresh apple. (I've tried to recreate the recipe at home, and have yet to pinpoint the correct combination of ingredients.) They are baked from a local wholesale bakery called A Scone Co. and also come in blueberry bran. There was a period of about 6 months last year (which I refer to as the Dark Ages) when the Grind stopped carrying them, because they had switched to a new baked goods supplier, but have just recently brought them back again. Thank god! My Saturday mornings, and occasional Fridays, have been restored, giving way to oh-so-delightful weekends.

coconut layer cake

Ahh yes, well more like shorty coconut layer cake. I personally prefer a larger buttercream : cake ratio in every bite, and so I decided to make thin layers of cake, with the normal amount of buttercream. Mwahahaha ...

This recipe is made richer and creamier by the addition of coconut cream to both the cake batter and the buttercream frosting. The cake was perfectly moist and crumbly. I must say my favorite part of this was the golden toasted coconut pressed on the sides, all around the cake. When heat is added to dry flaked coconut, the flavors deepen and intensify, producing a seriously nutty and crunchy, more mature coconut.


Do try this at home!

Coconut Layer Cake
adapted from Cooks Illustrated

Cake
1 large egg
5 large egg whites
3/4 cup cream of coconut
1/4 cup water
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon coconut extract
2 1/4 cups cake flour (9 ounces), sifted
1 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon table salt
12 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 1/2 sticks), cut into 12 pieces, softened, but still cool
2 cups packed sweetened shredded coconut (about 8 ounces)

Buttercream
4 large egg whites
1 cup granulated sugar
pinch table salt
1 pound unsalted butter (4 sticks), each stick cut into 6 pieces, softened, but still cool
1/4 cup cream of coconut
1 teaspoon coconut extract
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. For the Cake: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Grease two 9-inch round cake pans with shortening and dust with flour.
2. Beat egg whites and whole egg in large measuring cup with fork to combine. Add cream of coconut, water, vanilla, and coconut extract and beat with fork until thoroughly combined.
3. Combine flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in bowl of standing mixer fitted with paddle attachment. Mix on lowest speed to combine, about 30 seconds. With mixer still running on lowest speed, add butter 1 piece at a time, then beat until mixture resembles coarse meal, with butter bits no larger than small peas, 2 to 2 1/2 minutes.
4. With mixer still running, add 1 cup liquid. Increase speed to medium-high and beat until light and fluffy, about 45 seconds. With mixer still running, add remaining 1 cup liquid in steady stream (this should take about 15 seconds). Stop mixer and scrape down bowl with rubber spatula, then beat at medium-high speed to combine, about 15 seconds. (Batter will be thick.)
5. Divide batter between cake pans and level with offset or rubber spatula. Bake until deep golden brown, cakes pull away from sides of pans, and toothpick inserted into center of cakes comes out clean, about 30 minutes (rotate cakes after about 20 minutes). Do not turn off oven.
6. Cool in pans on wire racks about 10 minutes, then loosen cakes from sides of pans with paring knife, invert cakes onto racks and then re-invert; cool to room temperature.
7. While cakes are cooling, spread shredded coconut on rimmed baking sheet; toast in oven until shreds are a mix of golden brown and white, about 15 to 20 minutes, stirring 2 or 3 times. Cool to room temperature.
8. For the Buttercream: Combine whites, sugar, and salt in bowl of standing mixer; set bowl over saucepan containing 1 1/2-inches of barely simmering water. Whisk constantly until mixture is opaque and warm to the touch and registers about 120 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 2 minutes.
9. Transfer bowl to mixer and beat whites on high speed with whisk attachment until barely warm (about 80 degrees) and whites are glossy and sticky, about 7 minutes. Reduce speed to medium-high and beat in butter 1 piece at a time. Beat in cream of coconut and coconut and vanilla extracts. Stop mixer and scrape bottom and sides of bowl. Continue to beat at medium-high speed until well-combined, about 1 minute.
10. Assemble the cake. Cut into slices and serve.

my mecca: aka sur la table

I was home on Sunday for father's day, and made a trip over to Tyson's Corner. As soon as I had set foot in Sur la Table, the clouds parted and trumpets sounded from above. I was giddy with excitement as I bounced between the specialty baking equipment section and the knives case. They have the most impressive selection of ceramic ramekins and souffle cups anywhere, along with any type of kitchen tool imaginable, and pots galore! Knowing my special fondness of Sharffen Berger cocao nibs (my favorite bar is the Nibby Bar, hard to find now because of its popularity and limited quantities), Mr. S got me these:

Just our luck, they were on sale! 50% off! I tore into these babies like they were going out of style. I have a serious illness. Ah well. Anyway, I walked out the store half an hour later, with my bag of goodies in hand:

2 heavy gauge aluminum round cake pans, 8"
piping tip, 1/2"
frosting/palette knife
Sharffen Berger chocolate covered coffee beans
SB chocolate covered nibs

summer gazpacho

This soup really appeals to all 5 senses, so it's crucial to use the freshest ingredients possible since nothing is actually cooked in this dish. Try using a top grade sherry vinegar, as the acid really needs to shine through. (I use Solera 77, $4.99/bottle at Whole Foods)

What to serve with gazpacho? Try a grilled cheese sandwich of fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, fresh basil, and pesto mayo on a baguette.

Gazpacho

6 ripe plum tomatoes, cored and cut into 1/4-inch cubes
1 red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch cubes
1/2 sweet onion (Vidalia, Maui, or Walla Walla), peeled and minced
1 avocado, cubed
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons salt
1/3 cup sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
fresh ground black pepper, to taste
3 cups tomato juice
1 teaspoon hot sauce (I use Sriracha)
extra-virgin olive oil for serving

1. Combine the tomatoes, bell pepper, cucumber, onion, garlic, salt, vinegar, sugar and pepper in a large bowl. Let the vegetables marinate about 10 minutes. Stir in the tomato juice, hot pepper sauce and avocado. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours and up to 2 days.

2. Serve cold, drizzling each portion with 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil and topping with toasted croutons or tortilla chips.

on clafoutis, crumb cakes, & other such matters

I'm going through a phase in which my sweet tooth seems to have a hollow center! Let's call it a dessert baking binge of gargantuan proportions. Maybe it's that it is summer and with the hot humid temps, we tend to crave more for nibbling on sweets than on eating large savory meals. Summer cooking is super inspired by the freshness and locality of ingredients. Some of my favorites are strawberries, cherries, peaches, watermelon, heirloom tomatoes, ohh I just love them all!

I bought this pint of fresh strawberries from a local farmer who brings his produce to a retirement community every weekend. Beautiful, and many still with their long stems.

It was actually more than a pint, as I had enough to make a sweet puree for my homemade strawberry ice-cream (will post later about this), and with the remaining, a strawberry clafoutis, a dense buttery thick fruit pancake baked in the oven. I used this recipe from the Barefoot Contessa, in which I substituted the pears for strawberries. I found it to be more custard-like than cakelike. Then again, the recipe calls for a shockingly large measure of heavy cream! But, who's complaining? It turned out beautiful, and was relatively quick and easy.

Peaches have a greatly intoxicating aroma. I've always loved them, and have a particular weakness for big juicy white peaches, a relic of my childhood. I had about 2 hours time yesterday at home in between work and lsat class, and thought, what could I prep and bake up in such time? All day I was craving sinking my teeth into a soft coffeecake, so I incorporated the peaches on my counter into my recipe.

The cake has 3 layers: the buttery cake base, sliced peaches tossed in apricot jam, and the sugary walnut crumb topping. What an indulgent way to end a hecticly busy day with a big piece of this cake, a glass of milk, and watching a rerun of Tony Bourdain's No Reservations.

I will post the recipe later tonite, as I am running late for work!! :)

blood orange chiffon cake

As a wee lass, anytime I got the chance to eat anything other than Chinese food was a special treat. Even more special was when my mom made it herself. As my mom is definitively NOT the domestic homemaker, this happened only on certain holidays through the year, namely Christmas and my birthday. It started on my 6th birthday when I was surprised with a mammoth of a cake after dinner. My mom had gotten the recipe from a coworker. It was an orange chiffon cake, each mouthful tasting of rich egginess and tart citrus. More than anything, I loved the spongy soft texture that melted on my tongue. In my young formative mind, I decided that this was the best American food I'd ever had. It was what I looked forward to every year until my early teens when I started to bake for everything else. Even now, when I think comfort food, I crave a slice of this delicious moist sponge cake drizzled with light orange icing.

I made my own version the other day with some beautiful Spanish blood oranges, which turned the frosting a delectable shade of pale coral.
In the end, my cake was well worth the wait, and even my red-stained fingers and my sore arms of beating the many yolks and whites. I sat back with a big piece, savoring each bite, warm and satisfied at the thought of memories of birthdays past.



























BLOOD ORANGE CHIFFON CAKE

1 1/2 cups sugar
1 1/3 cups flour
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
7 large eggs, 5 separated, 2 left whole
2 blood oranges, zested to yield 2 tbsp zest and 3/4 cup juice
1/2 cup veg oil
1 tsp vanilla extract
1/2 tsp cream of tarter

4 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
4 tbsp blood orange juice
2 cups sifted confectioners sugar

1. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Whisk sugar, flour, baking powder, and salt together in large bowl (at least 4-quart size). Whisk in two whole eggs, five egg yolks (reserve whites), orange juice and zest, oil, and vanilla extract until batter is just smooth.

2. Pour reserved egg whites into large bowl; beat at medium speed with electric mixer until foamy, about 1 minute. Add cream of tartar, increase speed to medium-high, then beat whites until very thick and stiff, just short of dry, 9 to 10 minutes. Fold whites into batter.

3. Pour batter into large tube pan (9-inch diameter). Tap pan against countertop to release any large air pockets.

4. Bake cake until wire cake tester inserted in center comes out clean, 55 to 65 minutes. Immediately turn cake upside down to cool. If pan does not have prongs around rim for elevating cake, invert pan over bottle or funnel, inserted through tube. Let cake hang until completely cold, about 2 hours.

5. To unmold, turn pan upright and loosen cake from pan with a frosting spatula or thin knife around pan's circumference. If glazing the cake, use a fork or a paring knife to gently scrape all the crust off the cake. Loosen cake from pan bottom with spatula or knife, then invert cake onto plate.

6. For the glaze, beat butter, 4 tablespoons of the liquid, and sugar in medium bowl until smooth. Let glaze stand 1 minute, then try spreading a little on cake. A little at a time, spread glaze over cake top, letting excess dribble down sides. Let cake stand until glaze dries, about 30 minutes.

hiatus

As the food pornography pictures have piled up on my camera, and my blogging time was nonexistent last month, I have gone just a hair past stir-crazy! And so I will slowly update on all my travels and findings one by one. What a wonderful trip I had in Spain two weeks ago! We were in Malaga on the Costa del Sol for most of the time, and then took the train in to Madrid for 3 days. It was an enlightening experience, as I had never been to southern Europe. The things that surprised me the most:

1. Being in Spain screwed up all sense of time for me. When did it ever get dark? Not a day passed on my trip that the sun didn't set before 9:30pm. No wonder the Spanish are infamous for their nightlife and late night noshing.

2. Wine flows like water and is, in many instances, cheaper. On many wine menus, a glass of house red was ~2 euro, while bottled agua was slightly more. Andalucia, the southern region of Spain, is famous for its sherries.

3. Pate! No longer a French culinary mainstay! Pate is everywhere, no doubt to be found on any tapas menu and in between freshly baked baguettes to make a perfect bocadillo.

4. The perfect cup of coffee, smooth rich and dark, is ubiquitous, even at a highway roadside diner and rest stop, where truckers enjoy a steaming cup with toast, drizzled in olive oil. Brewed coffee is unheard of; every cup is made to order. Beans are ground, pressed, and run through the espresso machine. Here is how to order a cup of coffee:
Cafe solo: black coffee
Cafe cortado: coffee with a dash of steamed milk
Cafe con leche: coffee with half steamed milk/cream


Coffee culture is a labor of tradition and love, which leads me to my next point...

5. Food comes from the land and is made by the hands, rooted in tradition and values. Nowhere was this more evident than in Morrocco, where agriculture is a large part of the economy. Fresh dewy produce and glowing piles of oranges and nisperos line the street markets of Tangier; wives and mothers peek out of their doorways to buy fresh baked flatbreads at lunchtime; traditional Berber women take a breath of air in between selling fresh goat cheese, wrapped in palm leaves, during the midday sun. Its a way of life that is truly organic, with no one, but the farmer and the seller, dictating what food is sold and how its sold. Buyers are simply there to feed their families. In our culture, the American consumer has more control over the market, and actually dictates what foods should be sold. Its a thin line, but I believe that we've already crossed it.

6. Costa del Sol is the playing ground for many British expats. The boardwalk in Fuengirola was filled with British pubs and eateries. There were groups and groups of Scots and Brits at the resort where we stayed, namely to play golf, but also to enjoy the everlasting sunshine and bright beautiful weather that is a rarity in the whereabouts of their home.

7. Must make the most of every moment of life. This is the most valuable lesson I take away with me. Americans, as a society, value workaholism, and forget to re-evaluate every now and then the priorities in our lives, be it our families, our friends, our hobbies, or ourselves. The Spanish live life at a leisurely slow pace (by our standards) but at least they set their own pace. Things still get done, businesses still run (maybe not at set hours), life goes on, just not at the frenetic pace that we are so accustomed to. So, make everything you do in the day count for something, really value each minute and find some ounce of pleasure that you can derive from it, because it'll matter in the end.